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    Interior Designer Nate Berkus Has Co-Curated a New York Show of His Late Partner’s Photography

    It has been almost two decades since a devastating tsunami in the Indian Ocean caused unspeakable devastation across Indonesia, Sri Lanka, and Thailand, killing more than 200,000 people. Among those lost in the December 26, 2004, disaster was renowned Argentine photographer Fernando Bengoechea who, along with being a top commercial photographer, pioneered a unique and beautiful technique of re-creating his photographic images on woven paper. His subject matter is often drawn from the natural world.
    Bengoechea, who was in Sri Lanka that day with his then-partner, top designer, and frequent Oprah Winfrey guest Nate Berkus, was never found after the ocean swept him away. Berkus managed to survive.
    L to R: Cristina Grajales, Wendy Goodman, Nate Berkus, and Marcelo Bengoechoa on the opening night of “Woven Tapestries” at Cristina Grajales Gallery in Tribeca.
    Now Berkus and Fernando’s brother, Marcelo, are paying homage to their loved one with a stunning show at Cristina Grajales gallery in Tribeca. Marcelo has taken up Fernando’s practice of weaving photographic paper—which is no small feat especially when you see the works up close—in a show called “Woven Together: Reflections” that Berkus curated. Works by both Marcelo and Fernando are displayed concurrently.
    Along with the woven paper works by both brothers, Berkus included possessions he has held on to over the years, including an antique table and typewriter as well as pottery and ephemera, like business cards and receipts commemorating special places and meals that were stored in envelopes. They’re displayed alongside select works from the Grajales gallery’s eye-catching design collection, with pieces by artists like Michele Oka Doner, Hechizoo, and Aaron Poritz.
    Installation view of “Woven Together,” at Cristina Grjales in Tribeca. Image courtesy Cristina Grajales.
    It’s clear that Berkus and Marcelo have worked through and are still processing their grief and loss. As Marcelo eloquently put it, both in exhibit text and in a moving short film, shot in Sri Lanka: “I’ve come to accept my brother’s death, but I refuse to let his art die with him. It took me 15 years to reach that conclusion, and since then, I’ve been dedicated to keeping Fernando’s art alive.”
    As for the public’s response to the exhibition, gallerist Cristina Grjales said, “The opening of our exhibition ‘Woven Together: Reflections’ was magical and the response to Marcelo’s work and Nate’s insightful and meaningful curation has been wonderful… you could see how people were captured by the story and wanted to celebrate Fernando’s legacy.”
    Marcelo Bengoechea working on a woven photograph. Image courtesy Marcelo Bengoechea.
    We asked Berkus to tell us about the experience of curating the show and seeing the ensuing viewer reaction. “I often think about the trajectory of my life and how fundamentally I was changed for having known and loved Fernando,”  said Berkus.  A decade ago, he married fellow designer Jeremiah Brent and they are currently raising two children.
    https://www.instagram.com/p/DA6sLQApDx1/?hl=en&img_index=1
    “I look at my husband and our two children, who have helped me live with his memory—and in my love for my own family, I recognize the foundation that Fernando helped to build. In the immediate aftermath of the tsunami, those closest to me said that their greatest wish for me would be that one day, I would be able to look back on my time with Fernando and remember only the good things and not be focused solely on the tragic way our story ended. That time has come, and I’ve found a clear appreciation for the intensity of the gifts that he gave me.”
    Installation view of “Woven Together” at Cristina Grajales in Tribeca. Image courtesy Cristina Grajales.
    The opening night in late October saw a stellar turnout and featured a conversation between Nate Berkus, Marcelo Bengoechea, Wendy Goodman, and Cristina Grajales.
    During the conversation, Berkus remarked: “It’s hard to believe the Indian Ocean Tsunami was 20 years ago, Fernando would never have imagined how his brother Marcelo carries on the beauty of his work today. Standing in this room surrounded by Fernando’s singular vision is spiritually, emotionally, and physically yet another treasured full-circle moment. Lucky me.”
    “Woven Together: Reflections” is on view at Cristina Grajales at 50 Vestry Street, in Tribeca, through January 30, 2025. More

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    Hello? The Nokia Design Archive Will Call Up Memories of a Long-Lost Cellphone Era

    Remember when you could throw your phone after sending a risky text without worrying it would break? Long before sleek glass rectangles rendered Nokia’s bold and durable silhouettes obsolete, designers working for the pioneering electronics firm played with all the potential shapes that our brave, unnerving present could someday take.
    To honor Nokia’s foundational contributions to the rise of cell phones (and contemporary consumer culture), Finland’s Aalto University is launching the Nokia Design Archive—a database of 700 Nokia sketches, prototypes, and more hailing from the 1990s through 2017. The online resource will go live on January 15, 2025.
    Dale Frye (designer), Sketches and notes for a clamshell phone (page4), 1996. Photo: Nokia Design Archive, Aalto University Archives.
    Nokia started off in 1865 as a pulp mill, then started generating electricity in 1902. The company’s electronics division formed in 1967. 15 years later, Nokia released its first car phone, and in 1984, its first mobile phone. But, it wasn’t until 1987 that Nokia released one of the world’s first hand-held cell phones—which soon acquired global notoriety, and the nickname “Gorba,” after paps spotted Soviet Leader Mikhail Gorbachev using one to place a call to Moscow from Helsinki.
    Only the advent of Apple’s iPhone could unseat Nokia 20 years later. Microsoft acquired the ailing company in 2013, and subsequently sold it off in 2016.
    “Mangophone” (Nokia7600) surrounded by designer Tej Chauhan’s sketches. Photo: AleskiPoutanen/AaltoUniversity.
    That’s precisely when former Nokia designer and current Aalto University professor Anna Valtonen secured the database’s full 20,000 pieces of source material. That year, a Microsoft Mobile employee called her and said, “You know those archives you were interested in? I’m about to put the boxes out in the street by the dumpster,” according to Aalto University’s international editor of communications services Sarah Hudson.
    “This was how a treasure trove of real-life objects including the original ‘brick’ and ‘banana’ phones and never-before-seen handmade prototypes, alongside digitally curated sketches, eye-opening market profiling, interviews, videos and presentations made its way into the hands of researchers,” Hudson told me over email. Valtonen secured the appropriate licensing, then hopped in a van to pick up the goods.
    Render of virtual reality glasses. Photo: Nokia Design Archive, Aalto University Archives.
    Over email, Michel Nader Sayun—one of the many experts who helped build the Nokia Design Archive—said it took their team two years to catalog the trove for digital consumption. Historian Kaisu Savola took the lead on determining which pieces proved most interesting.
    “There is still a lot of work to do,” Nader Sayun wrote. “Thousands of files in the archive have not been catalogued.” Plus, several former Nokia designers have since donated their personal collections, adding to the 959GB of content already on hand.
    Different colourways of Nokia 5110, 1990s. Photo: Nokia Design Archive, Aalto University Archives.
    The database pairs iconic models like the Nokia3310 “Brick” with lesser known designs straight out of aughts-era sci-fi, such as the Nokia7600 “Mango” phone. A slide-up phone featuring accents from Italian fashion designer Giambattista Valli appears, alongside renderings of early wearable tech. There’s an unnamed egg-shaped phone that never even reached the market. It’s enough to make you yearn for an era where everything looked a little less… boring.
    3rd Generation Mobile Concept Rendering, unknown designer, 1998. Photo: Nokia Design Archive, Aalto University Archives.
    “Designers were having fun and finding inspirations all around,” Nader Sayun observed of the disparity between then and now. “Moreover, customization, and segmentation were very important values for Nokia Design.”
    So, while cell phone users can’t turn back time, at least we can now properly admire the past. More

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    Jen Stark’s Dazzling New Mural Brings a Kaleidoscope of Color to Miami Beach

    A bright and cheerful mural just brought a little extra color to sunny Miami Beach, courtesy of the city and artist Jen Stark. Sundial Spectrum is the seventh work in “Elevate Española,” a public art series that launched during Miami Art Week in 2022.
    The project decorates not only the walls along Española Way, but suspends art above the street, dangling between the palm trees.
    “It’s beautiful, and it’s such an honor to have Jen Stark. She has strong roots here,” Lissette Garcia Arrogante, the director of the city’s Tourism and Culture Department, told me at the project’s unveiling. “Her grandfather was a resident of Miami Beach, and he was also an artist.… and now she’s come back and really left her mark with this amazing mural.”
    Stark, who lives in Los Angeles but was born and raised in Miami, has added her signature psychedelic rainbow-hued designs to the street’s white walls, while creating reflective and translucent Plexiglas sculptures to hang overhead.
    Jen Stark, Sundial Spectrum (2024). The seventh work in “Elevate Española,” a public art series on Española Way in Miami Beach. Photo by Peter Vahan, courtesy of City of Miami Beach Tourism and Culture.
    “My work is inspired by color theory and nature. I choose a lot of geometric shapes, like fractals in nature and plant growth,” Stark said. “For this one, I wanted it to seem like an abstract sundial, where the colors will change throughout the day depending on where the sun is in the sky.”
    When the Miami sun shines—as it typically does—the light casts colorful shadows across the street, adding an unexpected dimension to the site-specific installation.
    Jen Stark painting Sundial Spectrum (2024). Photo by Peter Vahan, courtesy of City of Miami Beach Tourism and Culture.
    “I’ve always wanted to do a public work on South Beach, so this was the perfect moment, and I’m glad that they picked me for it this year,” Stark added. “Public art is my favorite kind of art. It levels the playing field, and it adds beauty to the city.”
    The city first installed public art on Española Way during Miami Art Week in 2021, with Little Cloud Sky, a friendly installation of floating inflated clouds from FriendsWithYou.
    Jen Stark, Sundial Spectrum (2024). Photo by Rudy Duboué, courtesy of City of Miami Beach Tourism and Culture.
    Española Way West was the first commercial development on the beach in the 1920s, and was originally home to artist studios. In 2017, the city turned it into a pedestrian-only street. The idea for “Elevate Española” was that a public art installation could help draw visitors down the corridor from the beach on Ocean Drive.
    “We’re looking for work that is vibrant, that is going to help bring life and and beauty to this corridor, and spark visitors and our residents to come and hang out in this area,” Garcia Arrogante said. “When we reached out to the property owners, they were very open to having an activation from the city and presenting amazing temporary works of art on their walls. It’s the city’s first private-public partnership when it comes to contemporary art.”
    Jen Stark, Sundial Spectrum (2024). Photo by Rudy Duboué, courtesy of City of Miami Beach Tourism and Culture.
    Sundial Spectrum is just one of the ways the city of Miami Beach participates in Miami Art Week. For the fifth year, the city hosted “No Vacancy, Miami Beach,” with public artworks and site-specific installations by 12 artists, each at a different Miami Beach hotel.
    Participating artists each have a shot at a $10,000 prize, selected by public vote and presented by the Greater Miami Convention and Visitors Bureau, and a $25,000 juried prize.
    dNASAb, Faux Ecologies + Augmented Visions of the Micro-verse (2024), on view in “No Vacancy, Miami Beach” on “The Egg” at the Betsy, Miami Beach. Photo by Monica McGivern, courtesy of Miami Beach Arts and Culture.
    Among the highlights was a haunting display by [dNASAb] at the Betsy, displayed on “The Egg,” a spherical orb sculpture that connects the third floor of the hotel’s two buildings in dramatic fashion. Titled Faux Ecologies + Augmented Visions of the Micro-verse, the A.I.-powered piece is trained on the artist’s paintings. It is an imagined microscopic trip inside a water droplet, offering a message about the dangers of microplastics, with a message reading “The Climate Can’t Wait.”
    The city also let residents vote to purchase one artwork from Art Basel Miami Beach for its public art collection, through the Legacy Purchase Program. The Miami Beach Art in Public Places Committee chose works by william cordova, Ximena Garrido-Lecca, and Nina Surel as this year’s finalists, with a $50,000 budget.
    The winner was Miami-based, Argentine-born Surel, who is represented by local gallery Spinello Projects, and her monumental 100-piece stoneware ceramic wall relief Allegory of Florida. The work casts Florida as a goddess of feminine fertility and matriarchal figure surrounded by symbols of the local flora and fauna.
    Nina Surel, Allegory of Florida. Photo courtesy of the artist and Spinello Projects, Miami.
    Surel joins a select group that includes Ebony G. Patterson, Amoako Boafo, Sanford Biggers, Farah Al Qasimi, Juana Valdés—also represented by Spinello Projects—and Anneke Eussen. Each winning piece goes on permanent view in the Miami Beach Convention Center, where the fair is held each year.
    “It’s my pleasure to represent and place the second work into the Legacy Collection by a woman artist,” Anthony Spinello, the artist’s dealer, said in a statement. “This acquisition and recognition hits differently considering women artists are still underrepresented, undervalued, and especially at a time when women’s rights are being challenged.”
    “Jen Stark: Sundial Spectrum” is on view on Española Way between Washington and Collins Avenues, Miami Beach, Florida, December 3, 2024–February 9, 2025.
    “No Vacancy, Miami Beach” is on view at Avalon Hotel Miami, 700 Ocean Drive; the Betsy Hotel, 1440 Ocean Drive; Cadillac Hotel and Beach Club, 3925 Collins Avenue; the Catalina Hotel & Beach Club, 1732 Collins Avenue; Esmé Miami Beach Hotel, 1438 Washington Avenue; Faena Miami Beach, 3201 Collins Avenue; Hotel Croydon Miami Beach, 3720 Collins Avenue; International Inn on the Bay, 2301 Normandy Drive; Kimpton Hotel Palomar South Beach, 1750 Alton Road; Kimpton Surfcomber Hotel, 1717 Collins Avenue; Royal Palm South Beach, 1545 Collins Avenue; Sherry Frontenac Hotel, 6565 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida, November 14–December 12, 2024.  More

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    A Prized Renaissance Masterpiece Returns to View After a Spectacular Restoration

    London’s National Gallery is finally unveiling the U.K.’s only Parmigianino altarpiece on the occasion of the institution’s 200th anniversary. The early Mannerist master’s towering The Madonna and Child With Saints John the Baptist and Jerome (1525-27) will resurface after 10 years of conservation in the exhibition “Parmigianino: The Vision of Saint Jerome.” Eight preparatory sketches will supplement Parmigianino’s 12-foot-tall feat of oil painting.
    Born Girolamo Francesco Maria Mazzola in 1503, Parmigianino was later named for his Italian hometown of Parma. He grew up among painters, but already stood apart by the time he was in his 20s. Pope Clement VII personally received Parmigianino upon his 1524 arrival in Rome. The artist’s taste for idealized beauty and sumptuous hues earned him a reputation as Raphael’s heir apparent.
    Parmigianino, The Madonna and Child with Saints John the Baptist and Jerome (1526-7). © The National Gallery, London. Presented by the Directors of the British Institution, 1826.
    As Giorgio Vasari’s famous story from the Sack of Rome goes, Charles V’s troops were so taken with this very painting upon storming his studio that they decided to just let him work. Parmigianino had been at work on the piece since 1526, when noblewoman Maria Bufalini commissioned it for her husband and father-in-law’s burial chapel at Rome’s San Salvatore in Lauro. Parmigianino put his all into this big break.
    In the ensuing nine-month occupation, The Madonna and Child With Saints was stowed in the refectory of Santa Maria della Pace, and Parmigianino moved home, where he died in 1530. In her will, Bufalini had included instructions to have the altarpiece framed and installed, but her great-nephew only brought it to their family headquarters of Città di Castello 30 years later. The work remained in their chapel at the church of Sant’Agostino until about 1772, when it was replaced with a copy and sent to their palazzo. The National Gallery acquired it in 1826, two years after the museum’s founding.
    Parmigianino, Study for a Composition of the Virgin and Christ Child with Saint John the Baptist and Saint Jerome below (recto) (1526-27). © The Trustees of the British Museum
    The past decade’s conservation efforts have revivified the artwork and adorned it with a new, period-appropriate frame. The painting’s lush greenery, striking light, and bold bodily movements might even distract viewers from its most uncommon feature—the slumbering Saint Jerome.
    “Numerous interpretations for this figure have been put forward,” curator Maria Alambritis explained over email of this “unusual” element. “After deciding on an asymmetrical arrangement for the saints—bringing the Baptist forward and reclining Jerome into the middle distance—the most plausible state for Jerome to be depicted in was asleep,” she wrote.
    Parmigianino, Studies of Saints John the Baptist and Jerome, a Crucifix and Various Heads (recto) (1525-27). © Image courtesy of the Getty’s Open Content Program
    On the other hand, the figure also vaguely resembles the Vatican’s Greco-Roman copy of Sleeping Ariadne, which Parmigianino may have seen. Furthermore, his decision could symbolically reference the dream state’s more mystical nature, and its role as “the cousin of death.” See the skull, a prop appropriate for a burial chamber, nestled near the sleeping saint’s knee.
    Five institutions have lent sketches to round out the showcase, including Los Angeles’s J. Paul Getty Museum—which tangled with the British government in 2017 over another Parmigianino that had long been on view at the National Gallery. A new catalogue, rich with new scholarship, also commemorates the occasion.
    “Parmigianino: The Vision of Saint Jerome” will be on view from December 5, 2024 through January 9, 2025 at the National Gallery, Trafalgar Square, London. More

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    Artists Grapple With Orientalism’s Thorny Legacy in Doha Museum Show

    What to do with problematic historical artists.
    It is a quandary that regularly dogs art historians, curators, critics, and the public at large regarding numerous high-profile artists of times past. In the list of controversial historic artists that give viewers pause, Jean-Léon Gérôme certainly ranks rather high. Credited with popularizing Orientalist painting to a fever pitch in the 19th century, the influence of Gérôme and his particular brand of Orientalism has seeped into Western depictions of the Middle East, North Africa, and South Asia (MENASA) region today, more than a century later.
    Unpacking Gérôme’s work and legacy is the subject of a three-part exhibition “Seeing is Believing: The Art and Influence of Gérôme,” jointly produced by the in-development, future Lusail Museum and Mataf: Arab Museum of Modern Art, both of Doha. While the first section curated by Emily Weeks, “A Wider Lens, A New Gérôme,” presents a comprehensive look at Gérôme’s practice and oeuvre, the latter two sections trace the evolution of Orientalism within visual culture through the present and offer insight into how contemporary artists engage with the theme.
    In the comparatively concise second section of the exhibition dedicated to photography and titled “Truth is Stranger than Fiction,” which operates as a sort of steppingstone taking visitors from the 19th century and into the 20th, curator Giles Hudson showcases how Gérôme’s techniques, most powerfully his use of color, have influenced subsequent generations of Western artists. Featuring a selection of 19th-century photographs illustrating the milieu of Gérôme’s time, more contemporary examples illustrate the enduring, and in some regards nefarious, ways his legacy lives on.
    Installation view of work by Steve McCurry in “Seeing is Believing: The Art and Influence of Gérôme” (2024). Courtesy of MATHAF: Arab Museum of Modern Art and Lusail Museum, Qatar Museums, Doha.
    In a suite of photographs by American photojournalist Steve McCurry, including the iconic Afghan Girl that appeared on the June 1985 cover of National Geographic, the images are vibrant and hyper-saturated, echoing the color schemes of Gérôme that signaled the subject matter as being “exotic.” Inclusions of more contemporary photographs by artists from the MENASA region show emerging artists co-opting these means as well as incorporating symbols and motifs (but with actual knowledge of them) to craft new visions for the future. Underscoring the reciprocal influence between Gérôme and photography, where Gérôme tapped the compositional structures of the lens-based medium in his painting to convey a sense of reality, photography in turn found painterly opportunities to sidestep reality and incorporate elements of fantasy.
    Outside of the context of the present show, Western audiences, specifically Americans, might recognize this type of color signaling from the way television shows and movies frequently use colored filters to convey a sense of place; for instance, paralleling the motivations of Orientalism, countries part of the Global South are often shot with a yellow filter.
    The first two sections were brought together by curators tapped by the Lusail Museum, an institution which will boast the world’s largest collection of Orientalist paintings. The third section “I Swear I Saw That” curated by Sara Raza, however, speaks to Mathaf’s specialization in Modern and contemporary art. It stands as a cogent exhibition on its own terms.
    Moving away from the direct impact of Gérôme espoused in “Truth is Stranger Than Fiction,” here Raza approaches the idea of Orientalism not from a Western perspective but from a multiplicity of Eastern ones.
    Babi Badalov, Text Still (2024). Courtesy of the artist and Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art, Doha.
    Questioning the East/West Dichotomy
    Describing her approach to curating “I Swear I Saw That” in a guided walkthrough of the show, Raza said, “It was a way to think through how artists’ hands become a poetic weapon, and to rethink Orientalism, but not in a didactic way. There’s a time to be like a blunt hammer, and there’s a time to be a little bit more poetic.”
    The exhibition section features 25 artists, with the work of each showcased on its own merits rather than lumped together into thematic groupings (i.e., like a “blunt hammer”), together forming a new contemporary vision of the MENASA region through artistic means and considering the ways it has historically been illustrated. “Collectively, they come together to re-think Orientalisms in the plural,” said Raza. “Orientalism in this section becomes a conversation between East and East. Interrogating where the endpoints of Europe meet, if you flip that, that’s the East. We start to think about the arbitrary nature of borders, space, human geography, and so on.”
    The start of this interrogation begins before visitors enter the exhibition, and even the museum building itself. One of two specially commissioned works for the show, installation work Text Still (2024) by Azerbaijani artist Babi Badalov envelops the exterior of Mathaf, comprised of collaged and stitched together fabric panels emblazoned with texts employing a range of alphabets such as Arabic, Cyrillic, and Latin. Playing with the elements of language itself, like grammar and syntax, as well as experimenting with various forms of stylized rendering of text like those found in graffiti or street art, Badalov’s work questions assumed hierarchies of language and culture as perpetuated by Orientalist lines of thinking. Even when figuration or illustration is absent, text is a common indicator of place, but within Text Still, the boundaries between alphabets and languages are metaphorically broken down and presented on a level plane.
    Ergin Çavuşoğlu, Quintet without Borders (2007). Courtesy of the artist and MATHAF: Arab Museum of Modern Art, Doha.
    Within the exhibition space itself, a video work by Ergin Çavuşoğlu, originally from Bulgaria and now based in London, more directly addresses, or rather abstracts, ideas around borders whether East and East or East and West. Quintet without Borders (2007) shows five Roma musicians playing music in five different places. The video recordings are synced so the result is a cohesive performance of a piece of music that contains elements from a range of musical traditions, reflecting the composers’ nomadic origins. The Roma people originated from the region of Rajasthan on the Indian subcontinent, but a series of westward migrations largely between the 5th and 11th centuries codified a tradition of nomadism, which extends through the present day. The itinerant lifestyle lends itself to a decidedly different conception of borders and movement through various lands, one at stark odds with contemporary notions of geography. Quintet without Borders interprets through poetic, and musical means an old to Roma but perhaps new to Westerners’ perspective on time, place, and culture.
    East and East
    While discourse around the East/West dichotomy has become well-trodden ground, confining Orientalism to a dynamic between Europe and the Near East paints only a fraction of the picture. Even the concept of “MENASA” itself is a construction.
    “That the idea of geography and space in the Muslim world isn’t just limited to terms like MENASA, WANA [West Africa North Asia], MENA. Nobody from this region ever refers to themselves as that and I’m from here,” Raza noted. “That’s really important to point out, that these are also terms that have a military connotation. They are fictional and the way in which East is constructed is also fictional. The Middle East and West Asia and North Africa, it was entirely created as a mythical space. Edward Said writes, of course, about this in Orientalism, and on the cover of Orientalism is the work of Gérôme, The Snake Charmer, except Said never, ever mentioned Gérôme by name. But an image is worth a thousand words.”
    These “military connotations” are not only the result of European interventions, but, for example, the Russian and later Soviet conquest of Central Asia, and the expansion and contraction of the Ottoman Empire. In both cases, forms of Orientalism outside Western constructs developed.
    Installation view of Farhad Ahrania, “Khatamkari” (2018–19). Courtesy of the artist and MATHAF: Arab Museum of Modern Art, Doha.
    Examples of contemporary dialogues with this history of non-Western Orientalism include works from Iranian-British artist Farhad Ahrarnia’s ongoing series that employs khatamkari, an ancient Persian art of marquetry, or inlaying technique. Here, Ahrarnia leverages this traditional practice in conversation with Soviet Modern art, specifically the work of Russian artist Kazimir Malevich. Western modes of Modernism are in turn relegated to the periphery, underscoring the falsity of Western universalism—artistic or otherwise.
    Aikaterini Gegisian, Self-Portrait as an Ottoman Woman with Flowers (2024). Courtesy of the artist and Courtesy of MATHAF: Arab Museum of Modern Art, Doha.
    Turning the equation in on itself are works such as Self-Portrait as an Ottoman Woman with Flowers (2024) by Aikaterini Gegisian. Building on a project undertaken by the artist between 2012 and 2016, the work features a range of postcard reproductions of women in various forms of pose and traditional dress from across the Ottoman Empire, reflecting a type of Orientalist ethnography. Coupled with dried flowers and images of Islamic architecture, Gegisian’s own organization of the work’s various parts becomes a feminist action, complicating hierarchies of identification.
    Contemporary Orientalism
    While Gérôme’s legacy is more of an abstract starting point for the “I Swear I Saw That,” it nevertheless provides a strong conceptual basis for recent artistic engagement with contemporary forms of Orientalism. The explorations are not just the body of work of one man, but an index of forms, colors, and symbols used as didactic indicators—regardless of their roots in either reality or fantasy.
    “It’s very easy to sort of just say, ‘OK, Gérôme is designated to the dustbin of art history,’” Raza observed. “But then how do we look at his work again within the revisionist lens? How do artists allow us another way to explore the work? And I think that’s really key in thinking about not only the art historical content but visual culture as a larger whole.”
    Installation view of work by Raeda Saadeh in “I Swear I Saw That” (2024). Courtesy of the artist and Courtesy of MATHAF: Arab Museum of Modern Art, Doha.
    Tapping into this vernacular, Palestinian artist Raeda Saadeh presents works from her “Fairy Tale” series, including Who will make me real? (2003). In this work, the artist photographs herself in the position of the Odalisque, typically shown in Western traditions as reclining, enveloped in news clippings.
    “You start to see two elements at play: one is misinformation, and one is disinformation. To some degree we can sometimes forgive misinformation because it might just be factual inaccuracy,” said Raza. “But disinformation is very intentional, designed to displace and mobilize the masses in a very particular way. We start to see how Orientalism takes shape in other intellectual deposits as well as the news. The news has a viral capacity to generate very particular kind of meaning.”
    By wrapping her body in these numerous and overlapping news clippings and through the work’s title, Saadeh engages with the media’s frequently Orientalist representation of Palestinian peoples, as well as her own physical and psychological experience of living under occupation. Unlike the traditional, docile Odalisque pose, however, Saadeh gazes directly out at the viewer in confrontation.
    Installation view of Nadia Kaabi-Linke, One Olive Tree Garden (2024). Courtesy of the artist and MATHAF: Arab Museum of Modern Art, Doha.
    In the second commissioned work for the show, One Olive Tree Garden (2024), Tunisian and Ukranian artist Nadia Kaabi-Linke presents an olive tree that has been cast in concrete and meticulously sliced, the pieces of which can be moved through and circumvented by visitors. Described by Raza as a type of “biopsy of a tree,” the work holds a multitude of references that, together, form a new perspective on Orientalism. Within the exhibition, the work alludes to Gérome’s painting La République (1848–49) which depicts the personified Republic with an olive branch. In Kaabi-Linke’s work, the tree rings (which are tapped within concrete and dissected) appear almost like a form of inscrutable cartography, evoking maps and borders, but cartography’s penchant for interpretation, paralleling the myth that is Orientalism.
    Jean-Léon Gérôme, La République (1848–49). Collection of the Musée des beaux arts de la ville de Paris.
    “Orientalism functions as a very unprogressive form of nostalgia,” said Raza. “There are nostalgic elements—there are colors, postures, scenes that evoke certain feelings. Perhaps they are beautiful in their detail. What largely projects onto external reality is what we’re trying to look at and ask: how do you exist as contemporary without cutting off the past?” More

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    Richard Avedon’s Luminous Photos of Creative Icons Star in Phoenix Museum Show

    “Dick had put up this huge bubble-jet poster of a sequence of pictures he’d taken of Marilyn in a tight sequined dress,” photographer Tim Walker once wrote of a photoshoot that friend and colleague, Richard Avedon, did with actress and fashion icon Marilyn Monroe.  
    “One morning the first thing, when I was making the coffee, I observed him standing in front of the poster mimicking all her poses, reliving the shoot in a way—almost asking, with his own body, ‘Did I get all I could?’ And of course he had!”
    This anecdote, taken from Walker’s 2018 book Avedon: Something Personal, perfectly encapsulates Avedon’s approach to photographing celebrities and artists—the practice for which he is most often remembered today. Now, 20 years after his passing, Avedon is getting a long-overdue retrospective at the Phoenix Art Museum in Arizona.
    Richard Avedon, Paul McCartney, The Beatles Portfolio, London, England, August 11, 1967. Photo: Center for CreativePhotography, University of Arizona: Richard Avedon Archive. © The Richard Avedon Foundation.
    The museum’s new exhibition, “Richard Avedon: Among Creatives,” opened on December 6, 2024, running until May 25, 2025. Curated by Emilia Mickevicius, an art historian who specializes in 20th century photography, “Among Creatives” brings together work from various stages of Avedon’s decades-spanning career, from the early fashion photography he did for Harper’s Bazaar, to the photographic portraits of celebrities like Monroe, which he produced later in life.
    Born in New York City in 1923 to Russian-Jewish immigrants who fled the Bolshevik Revolution, Avedon’s artistic career began when he started photographing his sister Louise as she began suffering from schizophrenia. His keen eye for lighting and composition helped land him jobs as a fashion photographer for numerous prestigious magazines, including Vogue, Elle, and—as mentioned—Harper’s Bazaar, leading him to befriend many a rising star.
    Richard Avedon, Marilyn Monroe, actor, New York, May 6, 1957. Photo: Center for Creative Photography, University ofArizona: Richard Avedon Archive. © The Richard Avedon Foundation.
    Like pop artist Andy Warhol, Avedon was interested in celebrity culture. But where the former depicted his subjects as cultural, consumerist commodities, the latter wanted to capture their humanity. While agents, managers, and publicity firms work to present a consistent, positive image of their client, Avedon captured their inevitable multitudes through his deceptively simplistic portraiture, straying closer to the likes of the Old Masters than to Warhol.
    His commitment to authenticity and transparency even carried over into his fashion photography. As Amanda Hopkinson wrote for The Guardian after Avedon passed away in 2004:
    Richard Avedon, Marian Anderson, contralto, New York, June 30, 1955. Photo: Center for Creative Photography, University of Arizona. © The Richard Avedon Foundation.
    “Avedon’s own interest was always in the people, never in the fashions. In fact, the models tended to add a layer of complication to what he fundamentally believed was the relationship between photographer and sitter. As he said: ‘A photographic portrait is a picture of someone who knows he (sic) is being photographed, and what he does with this knowledge is as much a part of the photograph as what he’s wearing or how he looks.’”
    Richard Avedon, Dovima with elephants, evening dress by Dior, Cirque d’Hiver, Paris, August 1955. Photo: Center for Creative Photography, University of Arizona: Richard Avedon Archive. © The Richard Avedon Foundation.
    In addition to scrutinizing his approach to portraiture, “Among Creatives” promises to explore how Avedon’s photographs of troubled celebrities like Monroe reflect his own lifelong struggles with fame, mortality, and the demands of his craft.
    Aside from Monroe, visitors will get face-to-face with photographs of John Ford, Allen Ginsberg, Marlene Dietrich, Paul McCartney, and Warhol, as well as those of renowned fashion models like Veruschka, Dovima, and Penelope Tree. More

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    Want to See Inside the First Impressionist Exhibition? There’s a V.R. Experience for That

    Few exhibitions have been more mythologized than the one that opened in a Parisian photography studio on April 15, 1874. There, over the course of a month, the trajectory of art was altered, launching a movement, Impressionism, that’s still being dissected 150 years later.
    Not that its protagonists anticipated as much. The 31 artists who convened at the studio of Felix Nadar at 35 Boulevard des Capucines were disgruntled, underpaid, and largely unknown. The exhibition was indeed a revolution, though not simply in artistic terms: these were the rejects of the Académie des Beaux-Arts Salon, the state-sponsored arbiter of artistic value, and by hosting an alternative show, the artists controlled how their work was to be exhibited, priced, and sold.
    This note of pragmatism was touched upon at “Paris 1874: Inventing Impressionism,” the landmark Musée d’Orsay exhibition that recently traveled to Washington, D.C.’s National Gallery of Art. Throw in the siege of Paris during the Franco-Prussian War and the chaos of the Commune insurrection, and those dreamy works by Claude Monet, Berthe Morisot, and Pierre-Auguste Renoir seem less like reflections on modern society and more like willful escapes.
    Monet paints the scene at Le Havre, from the VR experience “Tonight With the Impressionists.” Courtesy Gedeon/Excurio.
    One component of the Musée d’Orsay’s exhibition that stuck rather more closely to the romance was “Tonight With the Impressionists,” a 45-minute virtual reality experience. It casts back to the fateful night of April 15 and plunges visitors into the rapidly modernizing world of the late 19th century, one the Impressionists so vividly captured. There are the grand new boulevards designed by Baron Haussmann, electric lamps, and, of course, a steam engine pulling into the Gare Saint-Lazare.
    After showings across France and in Atlanta, Georgia, “Tonight with the Impressionists” is set to open on December 13 at Eclipso in Midtown Manhattan, an 11,000-square-foot space purpose-built to stage V.R. experiences. It’s the latest in a trend that’s using immersive technology to make some of the art world’s most popular figures, such as Frida Kahlo and Vincent van Gogh, more engaging and approachable.
    Interior of the first exhibition of the Impressionists, from the VR experience “Tonight With the Impressionists.” Courtesy Gedeon/Excurio.
    Gedeon Media Group, which co-produced the V.R. experience alongside the Musée d’Orsay, has worked to maintain historical accuracy alongside the entertainment. The experience’s narrative may be invented, but the details remain accurate—to the degree possible. Nadar’s studio, for instance, was knocked down in the 1990s, and there are no photographs of the 1874 exhibition itself. To compensate, Gedeon used architectural plans, exterior photographs, and upholstery and wallpaper information to recreate the space.
    Beyond the studio and the febrile streets of Paris, “Tonight with the Impressionists” rides into the countryside and looks on as painters now considered masters got to work. Renoir paints the scene at La Grenouillere, a boating and bathing resort on the Seine, and Monet steps onto the balcony of his Le Havre hotel room and paints the work that granted the movement its name, Impression, Sunrise (1872).
    “This experience offers a journey through time and invites visitors from all over the world to experience the emotions that inspired the painters, particularly in two well-known regions of France, Normandy, and the Paris region,” said Stéphane Millière, CEO of Gedeon Experiences. More

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    Marina Abramović Opens Her Archive for an Intimate Miami Exhibition

    Marina Abramović, performance artist extraordinaire, is not sitting out the festivities at Miami Art Week. In collaboration with Spanish clothing brand Massimo Dutti, the artist is presenting “A Tribute to the Nomadic Spirit,” an exhibition at the city’s Faena Art Project Room, to coincide with the release of her coffee table book, Nomadic Journey and Spirit of Places.
    As hinted at by the exhibition and book titles, the show is offering a rare glimpse into Abramović’s artistic process, exploring the creative journeys she’s undertaken through four decades’ worth of drawings, poetry, photographs, and reflections.
    Installation view of “Marina Abramović & Massimo Dutti: A Tribute to the Nomadic Spirit” at Faena Art Project Room. Photo courtesy of Massimo Dutti.
    Born in the Serbian province of Belgrade in 1946, Abramović first became interested in performance art while she was studying at Belgrade’s Academy of Fine Arts, recognizing the largely unexplored medium as a means to communicate her political views. One of Abramović’s most well-known pieces of performance art, 1997’s Balkan Baroque, saw her try and fail to clean some 1,500 cow bones—an obvious metaphor for how the violence of historical events can never be washed off.
    Marina Abramović’s sketches on hotel stationery. Photo courtesy of Massimo Dutti.
    Her other performance work is just as provocative. Relation in Time (1977) saw her and her professional and romantic partner, German visual artist Ulay, spend 17 hours with their hair tied together, symbolizing their connection. Most famously, for The Artist Is Present (2010), Abramović spent a total of 750 hours seated in silence, inviting visitors to engage her in uncomfortably intimate staring contests.
    Marina Abramović’s sketches on hotel stationery. Photo courtesy of Massimo Dutti.
    In “Nomadic Journey” are prints of the artist’s original drawings and doodles—some of them casual and spontaneous, others unveiling a creative mind at work. Some are scribbled on hotel stationery, capturing the roads she’s taken over the decades: a piece of Venice’s Bauer Hotel note paper is traced with outlines of her hand and foot, while another doodle under the letterhead of Brazil’s Fasano Hotel offers the cryptic phrase: “…if you could see.”
    Marina Abramović’s sketches on hotel stationery. Photo courtesy of Massimo Dutti.
    Even when residing in temporary residences, Abramović apparently found space for reflection and inspiration.
    “I believe we humans need to keep moving forward, and my own life was purely nomadic,” Abramović noted of these travel journals. “My home was everywhere I went because my home was my own body.”
    Cover of Nomadic Journey and Spirit of Places. Photo courtesy of Massimo Dutti.
    The accompanying book, Nomadic Journey and Spirit of Places, similarly chronicles her nomadic lifestyle, which has taken her from Serbia to the United States. It also explores her evolution as an artist through a self-curated selection of her work, combining poetry, notebooks, and personal observations. It will be available for purchase in select Massimo Dutti stores.
    “A Tribute to the Nomadic Spirit: An Artistic Intervention by Marina Abramović” is on view at Faena Art Project Room, 3420 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida, December 3–8, 2024. More