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    Tenderness and Empathy Prevail in Bisa Butler’s Nostalgic and Vibrant Quilts

    “Hold Me Close (My Starship)” (2025), after
    Steve Edson, Untitled (1974), cotton, silk, lace, sequins, netting, vinyl, faux fur, and velvet, quilted and appliquéd, 90.5 x 54 inches. All images courtesy of the artist and Jeffrey Deitch, shared with permission

    Tenderness and Empathy Prevail in Bisa Butler’s Nostalgic and Vibrant Quilts

    September 23, 2025

    ArtCraft

    Kate Mothes

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    Harnessing the power of empathy, Bisa Butler presents a tender, evocative suite of new works in her current exhibition, Hold Me Close at Jeffrey Deitch. The artist is known for her chromatic, multi-patterned quilted artworks exploring Black history, identity, and craft traditions. Her elaborate pieces combine materials like printed cotton, silk, sequins, beads, and velvet to create both large-scale tapestries and intimate vignettes.

    The work in Hold Me Close centers around the need for mutual respect, love, and togetherness in a society that has become increasingly factious. “This body of work is a visual response to how I am feeling as an African American woman living in 2025,” Butler says in a statement for the show. Deeply moved by our current era of division and violence, in which hard-won civil rights are being challenged and overturned, she taps in the past to shed light on our current moment.

    “Down, down baby” (2024), after Gorden Parks, “Girls Playing in Water” (1956), cotton, silk, vinyl, velvet, lace netting, and polyester, quilted and appliquéd, 107 x 105 inches

    Hold Me Close draws on imagery from trailblazing Black photographers like Gordon Parks, Jean Depara, and Gerald Cyrus, who captured street scenes depicting Black figures going about their daily lives and enjoying one another’s company. Parks, for example, was a staunch civil rights advocate who documented racial segregation and oppression of Black people to boldly illustrate the societal disparities in the 1940s and 1950s.

    In his two-decade role at Life magazine, Parks captured some of his most significant work, ranging from celebrity portraits to the iconic March on Washington in 1963. Along with numerous other photographers—and acclaimed artists like Faith Ringgold and Kerry James Marshall—that Butler turns to for reference imagery, Parks’ images elucidate the evolving diversity of American culture and experience.

    Butler renders her figures in brilliant, mixed-media textures and vivid patterns that draw attention to expressions and interactions. The artist describes her recent work as a “visual diary,” which she turns to for solace. “Protections and programs for non-white Americans, women, queer people, poor people, and people with disabilities are under attack, and it has left me feeling destabilized,” she says.

    In the face of uncertainty, the artist summons affection and care. “Les Amoureux du Kinshasa,” after a photo titled “Amoureux Au Nightclub” by Jean Depara, celebrates young love by depicting a couple on a night out. More works like “Be Mine” and “My Cherie Amour” capture tender portraits of people who lean close together.

    “Les Amoureux du Kinshasa” (2025), after Jean Depara, “Amoureux Au Nightclub” (1951-1975), cotton, silk, lace, sequins, netting, vinyl, glass rhinestones, plastic beads, and velvet, quilted and appliquéd, 95 x 59 inches

    Butler’s compositions also explore familial endearment and the innocence and ease of children at play together. In “The Guardian,” a father warms his daughter inside of his large coat, and in “Down, down baby,” two young girls have an impromptu tea party in a puddle.

    Most of Butler’s new works start with a base of jet black cotton or black velvet, onto which she layers colors and textures. “Using a dark base pushed me to incorporate more fabrics with shimmer and reflective qualities,” she says. Three-dimensional textures like beads and rhinestones create the illusion of depth, encouraging us to look beyond the immediate surface. This poetically parallels how, in order to identify and connect with others in our daily lives, we must do the same. Butler says, “This collection is my visual declaration that we need love over hate.”

    Hold Me Close continues at Jeffrey Deitch’s Los Angeles location through November 1. Find more on the artist’s website and Instagram.

    Detail of “Down, down baby”

    “My Cherie Amour” (2025), cotton, silk, lace, sequins, netting, vinyl, glass rhinestones and plastic beads, and velvet, quilted and appliquéd, 44 x 31. 5 inches

    “The Guardian” (2024), after Earlie Hudnall Jr., “The Guardian” (1990), cotton, silk, wool, velvet, faux fur, sequins, rhinestones, and vinyl, quilted and appliquéd, 94 x 60 inches

    “Be Mine” (2025), cotton, silk, lace, sequins, netting, vinyl, glass rhinestones and plastic beads, velvet, and faux fur, quilted and appliquéd, 45 x 45 inches

    “Coco With Morning Glories” (2024), after Dana Lixenberg, “Coco” (1993), cotton, silk, lace, netting, tulle, sequins, glitter, beads, glass gems, metal beads, silk and polyester woven fabric, and velvet, quilted and appliquéd, 84 x 55 inches

    “Strawberry Letter #23” (2025), after Gordon Parks, “Man With Straw Hat, Washington D.C,” (1942), cotton, silk, lace, sequins, netting, vinyl, glass rhinestones, plastic beads, and velvet, quilted and appliquéd, 46 x 34 inches

    Detail of “Strawberry Letter #23”

    “La Negra Tiene Tumbao” (2025), after Gerald Cyrus, “Barbara and Alencar, Itaparica, Brazil” (2002), cotton, silk, lace, sequins, netting, vinyl, and velvet, quilted and appliquéd, 89 x 53 inches

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    Cultural Narratives and Craft Converge in the 2025 World of WearableArt Competition

    Faris Fairusham (Victoria University of Wellington, Malaysia), “Wau Bulan.” Photos by Stephen A’Court. All images courtesy of World of WearableArt, shared with permission

    Cultural Narratives and Craft Converge in the 2025 World of WearableArt Competition

    September 22, 2025

    ArtDesign

    Kate Mothes

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    Wellington’s extravagant World of WearableArt is back for 2025, including pieces by 85 finalists that showcase today’s most elaborate and fanciful costumes. One hundred designers from 17 countries competed for a prize pool of more than $200,000 New Zealand dollars across 25 awards. The competition culminates in an elaborate performance, with this year’s top honor, known as the WOW Supreme Award, handed to design duo Dawn Mostow and Ben Gould.

    The U.S.-based designers have been finalists several times since 2017, and this marks their first win. Mostow and Gould’s piece “Tsukumogami” draws on Mostow’s time living in Japan, nodding to the country’s folklore and craft traditions through a reference to mythological tools that can be imbued with a spirit, or a kami. Two figures completely covered in blue-and-white latex stand like elaborate classical vases, with ikebana flower arrangements on their heads.

    This year’s runner-up is Fifi Colston’s “Meine Erste Liebe,” a title which means “my first love” in German. The wearer is transformed into a medusa, with an elaborate bodice and globular headdress, plus an elaborate, bell-like skirt embellished with detailed jellyfish.

    2025 World of WearableArt Show: RISE performances continue through October 5 at TSB Arena in Wellington. Explore more, including an archive of pieces from earlier shows, on the contest’s website.

    Dawn Mostow and Ben Gould (United States), “Tsukumogami”

    Fifi Colston (New Zealand), “Meine Erste Liebe”

    Evita Camilleri and Dan Draper (Australia), “Fractilians”

    Catherine Anderton (New Zealand), “Autumn King”

    Vanshika Jain (Indian Institute of Art and Design, India), “Stripy Mischief”

    Katherine Bertram (New Zealand), “Drift”

    Abhishek Chauhan (India), “Thaliora”

    Xuan Jiang, Yuxin Zhou, and Yuhan Lin (Donghua University, China), “Ember”

    Anna Hayes-Moeau (New Zealand), “Ko Au Ko Harakeke, Ko Harakeke Ko Au”

    Tracey Murphy and Isabel Costley (New Zealand), “See Me in Tokyo”

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    In ‘Aqueous Renaissance,’ Christy Lee Rogers Conjures Beauty and Interconnectivity Under Water

    “Harmony.” All images © Christy Lee Rogers, courtesy of Art Labor Gallery, shared with permission

    In ‘Aqueous Renaissance,’ Christy Lee Rogers Conjures Beauty and Interconnectivity Under Water

    September 2, 2025

    ArtPhotography

    Kate Mothes

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    Born in Hawai’i, Christy Lee Rogers was fascinated by water from an early age. “For me, water has always been both chaos and freedom,” the artist says. “It strips away control and asks us to see ourselves in a different light. That’s where my stories begin.”

    Rogers is known for her large-scale, maximalist photographs shot completely under water, suspending figures in the midst of billowing garments. Using a range of lighting effects and vibrant fabrics to compose dramatic images, her style is evocative of Baroque or Rococo paintings and murals.

    “Candy”

    Aqueous Renaissance, the artist’s forthcoming solo exhibition at Art Labor Gallery, showcases Rogers’ unique exploration of underwater photography throughout the last two decades. Tapping into the term “renaissance” as a period of revival or rebirth, she aims to highlight beauty and grace in our contemporary era marked by factions and division.

    Rogers’ photos are achieved by submerging her subjects in dark water, which she illuminates with a range of lights. As the figures twist and turn, the light creates a dreamlike, painterly effect. “Her underwater visions are not escapist fantasies but mirrors of our collective condition—fragile, fluid, and searching for meaning,” the gallery says.

    Aqueous Renaissance runs from September 6 through October 26 in Shanghai. See more on the artist’s website and Instagram.

    “A Dream Blossomed Right in Front of My Eyes”

    Image from Lavazza Calendar

    “Our Hopes and Expectations”

    “Tenderness”

    “A Dream Dreamed in the Presence of Reason”

    “Candy”

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    In ‘Bourdon Street Chippy,’ Lucy Sparrow Celebrates a British Culinary Institution in Felt

    Photos by Alun Callender for JBPR. All images courtesy of the artist and Lyndsey Ingram, shared with permission

    In ‘Bourdon Street Chippy,’ Lucy Sparrow Celebrates a British Culinary Institution in Felt

    August 7, 2025

    ArtCraftFood

    Kate Mothes

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    From fried cod to red saveloy sausage to the carb-lover’s chip butty—a simple sandwich made with chunky fries on a buttered roll—the menu at Bourdon Street Chippy resembles what you’d expect to see at a traditional British fish and chips shop. The only real difference, despite the delectable-looking cones of deep-fried treats and perfectly formed pies, is that everything from the jarred, picked eggs to the battered haddock to the wall decor is made from felt.

    The brainchild of artist Lucy Sparrow (previously), Bourdon Street Chippy is the latest in a series of elaborate, large-scale, interactive installations highlighting quotidian places like supermarkets, pharmacies, and bodegas that we visit all the time but rarely think of much in the way of aesthetics. Crafted in soft fiber, many of the artist’s renditions of merchandise and food sport cute, smiling expressions while faithfully replicating iconic dishes and products.

    Bourdon Street Chippy is presented by Lyndsey Ingram Gallery, which is located on Bourdon Street in London. While the scampi and chips that Sparrow whips up aren’t edible, they are available for purchase. Visitors are welcome to peruse the menu and order their takeaway directly from the artist. “As much theatre as art, the familiarity of…these spaces disarms the viewer, taking them to a playful, often nostalgic place,” the gallery says.

    The exhibition includes handmade banquette seating and a wall-to-wall gallery of sewn portraits of the chippy’s famous patrons. Read fabric menus, have an even tougher time than usual getting ketchup to come out of the Heinz bottles, and be reminded not to feed the seagulls. All in all, the installation includes more than 65,000 individual felt pieces, including 15 chip shapes in different colors.

    The exhibition continues through September 14. Find more on the artist’s website and Instagram.

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    From Velvet and Vintage Textiles, Larysa Bernhardt Embroiders Otherworldly Moths

    All images courtesy of Larysa Bernhardt, shared with permission

    From Velvet and Vintage Textiles, Larysa Bernhardt Embroiders Otherworldly Moths

    July 7, 2025

    ArtCraftNature

    Kate Mothes

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    “Mythology and folklore surrounding moths and butterflies carries complex and sometimes contradictory symbolism,” artist Larysa Bernhardt says. “I was always attracted to their paradoxical nature.” While on one hand, she dreads certain types of the winged creatures turning up in her house because of the risk they pose to textiles, she is fascinated by their variations and loves to see them thrive.

    Dualities abound in Bernhardt’s sculptural, embroidered textile moths. Her creative process begins outdoors in a seemingly unrelated aspect of the studio—her garden. The artist tends to a “moon garden” every summer, comprising fragrant botanicals like tobacco, moonflower, datura, and jasmine that perfume the air and blossom with small white flowers that “glow in the dark like stars,” the artist says. Sphinx and luna moths often visit, accompanied by thousands of fireflies.

    When the sun comes up, the garden transforms into a riot of color, with zinnias, poppies, and roses attracting daytime pollinators like butterflies and bees. “It’s the duality of it—night and day, sun and moon, moths and butterflies” that fascinates Bernhardt. She adds, “It’s an incredibly complex balancing act I am forever mesmerized by.”

    Mirroring the supple fuzziness of the insects’ wings, the artist enjoys working with velvet to achieve the moths’ elegance and whimsy. It’s a challenging material because the pile can be unforgiving; make a mistake and the ghost of the stitch will remain as a mark on the fabric. Bernhardt stitches freehand when applying motifs to the wings, starting with a loose sketch but allowing intuition to guide her in creating star-like patterns and symbolic objects like vases or eyes.

    Bernhardt also loves working with vintage needlepoints and old tapestries. “I find textile pieces in dusty corners of antique stores; I love these discoveries,” she says. “And I love giving them another chance to go back up on a wall and be admired again, cherished.”

    The artist’s work is currently included in Daughters of Eve at Quirky Fox in Taranaki, New Zealand, and Beyond the Sea at Nanny Goat Gallery in Petaluma, California. In August, Bernhardt will be part of a show with Beinart Gallery in Melbourne, and she’s currently working toward a solo exhibition at Haven Gallery in Long Island, New York. Find more on her website and Instagram.

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    Elodie Blanchard Revitalizes Fabric Scraps into Vivid Patchworks of Trees, Bouquets, and Goddesses

    “Goddesses 11, 8, 9, 10.” Image © Randy Duchaine. All images courtesy of Elodie Blanchard, shared with permission

    Elodie Blanchard Revitalizes Fabric Scraps into Vivid Patchworks of Trees, Bouquets, and Goddesses

    June 30, 2025

    Art

    Grace Ebert

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    The garments we wear often hold stories about our lives. A hole in the knee of a well-loved pair of jeans recalls hours spent bent down to tend to a vegetable garden, while a greasy oil stain condemns a T-shirt once worn to a family barbeque.

    For Elodie Blanchard, textiles hold boundless narrative potential. Working with fabrics gathered from friends, stoops around her Brooklyn neighborhood, and secondhand shops, the French-American artist and designer stitches patchwork sculptures that transform materials otherwise destined for the landfill into vibrant forms. When searching for something more specific—say, Lycra, leather, or fur—the artist taps her friends in the industry and organizations like Materials for the Arts and FabScrap.

    “Forest.” Image © Randy Duchaine

    The resulting pieces take many shapes. There are Blanchard’s spindly trees that layer stripes of fabrics upward, creating visible rings encircling the trunk. Stretch is essential in these arboreal constructions, and the artist shares that she tends to alternate the amount of give a material has, allowing for small bulges and curves that resemble organic life.

    For her sprawling bouquet series, Blanchard finds inspiration from Green-Wood Cemetery near her home. She scours the trash cans for polyester scraps, tattered flags, and other materials that once honored the dead. “Remembrance Happy Birthday,” for example, came to fruition after the artist found a balloon bearing those words.

    Whether creating a figurative goddess or a three-dimensional vessel, the material guides the form. “It may look spontaneous, but I carefully consider color and pattern when sewing the strips together,” Blanchard says. “If I want to make a ‘fancy’ tree, I’ll seek out haute couture fabrics; if I’m creating a trophy urn meant to show excess, I’ll look for bright gold poly materials.” Whatever the form, though, Blanchard has a central goal: “Each time, I try to create a unique universe or personality.”

    If you’re in New York, you can see some of Blanchard’s works in Soft Structures, on view through August 8 at Jane Lombard Gallery. She’s currently working toward an open studio and exhibition as part of New York’s Textile Month, and you can find more from the artist on her website and Instagram.

    “Portraits,” installation view at SEEDS

    “Remembrance Happy Birthday.” Image © Randy Duchaine

    Detail of “Goddess 11”

    “Urn VI” (2024), fabric, leather, Mylar balloon, 18 x 16 x 22 1/2 inches

    “Bouquet 5.” Image © Paul Plews

    “Bouquet 23”

    Detail of “Remembrance Happy Birthday.” Image © Randy Duchaine

    “Urn I Love You” (2025), fabric, leather, mylar balloon, 28 x 19 x 17 inches

    “Remembrance Ninja Turtles.” Image © Randy Duchaine

    Detail of “Remembrance Ninja Turtles.” Image © Randy Duchaine

    Elodie Blanchard with trees (2022). Image © Randy Duchaine

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    Explore Storytelling Through 300 Years of Quilts in ‘Fabric of a Nation’

    Bisa Butler, “To God and Truth” (2019), print and resist-dyed cottons, cotton velvet, rayon satin, and knotted string, pieced, appliquéd, and quilted; 117 1/2 x 140 5/8 inches. Photos © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. All images courtesy of Frist Art Museum, shared with permission

    Explore Storytelling Through 300 Years of Quilts in ‘Fabric of a Nation’

    June 25, 2025

    ArtCraftHistory

    Kate Mothes

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    While we often associate quilts with their function as bedspreads or an enjoyable hobby, the roots of the craft run very deep. The art form has long been associated with storytelling, and numerous styles have enabled makers to share cultural symbols, memories, and autobiographical details through vibrant color and pattern.

    African American quilters have significantly influenced the practice since the 17th century, when enslaved people began sewing scraps of fabric to make blankets for warmth. Through artists like Harriet Powers in the 19th century or the Gee’s Bend Quilters, this powerful mode of expression lives on in rich tapestries and textile works being made today.

    Civil War Zouave Quilt (1863–64), wool plain weave and twill, cotton plain weave and other structures, leather; pieced, appliquéd, and embroidered with silk. Photo © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

    A new exhibition titled Fabric of a Nation: American Quilt Stories from the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston opens this week at the Frist Art Museum, surveying nearly 50 quilts from the MFA’s collection. Works span the 19th through 21st centuries, with bold textiles by contemporary artists like Bisa Butler included alongside Civil War-era examples and commemorative album quilts.

    Stories play a starring role in Fabric of a Nation, which delves into the socio-political contexts in which the pieces were made and how narrative, symbolism, and autobiography shaped their compositions. For example, a unique Civil War quilt completed by an unknown maker in 1864 repurposes fabric from Zouave uniforms. Small panels featuring birds, soldiers on horseback, and the American flag transport us to a time when the U.S. had been at war for three years.

    Another fascinating piece is another flag composition in which the stripes have been stitched with dozens of names, including Susan B. Anthony near the top of one of the central columns. Known as the “Hoosier Suffrage Quilt,” it’s thought to chronicle suffrage supporters.

    More recently, Michael C. Thorpe’s untitled work features the bold appliquéd words “Black Man” over pieced batik fabrics. Butler’s large-scale “To God and Truth” is a colorful reimagining of an 1899 photograph. She transforms a black-and-white image into a vibrant, patterned portrait of the African American baseball team of Morris Brown College, Atlanta.

    Fabric of a Nation opens on June 27 and continues through October 12 in Nashville. Find more and plan your visit on the museum’s website. You might also enjoy exploring more quilts by Black Southern makers or Stephen Townes’ embroidered tableaux of leisure in the Jim Crow South.

    Michael C. Thorpe, Untitled (2020), printed cotton plain weave and batting; machine quilted, 20 x 16 inches

    Hoosier Suffrage Quilt (before 1920), cotton plain weave, pieced, embroidered, and quilted. Photo © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

    Unidentified maker. Peacock Alley Chenille Bedspread (1930–40s), cotton plain weave, embroidered with cotton pile; 99 x 88 1/2 inches. Photo © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

    Baltimore album quilt (c. 1847–50), cotton plain weave, pieced, appliquéd, quilted, and embroidered ink. Photo © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

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    To ‘Walk the House,’ Do Ho Suh Traverses Memory and Perceptions of Home

    “Rubbing/Loving Project: Seoul Home” (2013-2022), installation view of ‘The Genesis Exhibition: Do Ho Suh: Walk the House.’
    All images © Do Ho Suh, courtesy of the artist, Lehmann Maupin
    New York, Seoul, and London, and Victoria
    Miro. Photo by Jai Monaghan/Tate, shared with permission

    To ‘Walk the House,’ Do Ho Suh Traverses Memory and Perceptions of Home

    April 30, 2025

    Art

    Kate Mothes

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    “Is home a place, a feeling, or an idea?” That’s the lofty yet immanently relatable question at the heart of Do Ho Suh’s major survey open now at Tate Modern. The London-based Korean artist (previously) explores notions of belonging, connection, comfort, security, and familiarity in large-scale installations that replicate his own homes in Seoul, London, and New York, among a range of vibrant multimedia works.

    Suh is known for his use of gossamer fabric to create immersive, monumental installations. In The Genesis Exhibition: Do Ho Suh: Walk the House, the artist “examines the intricate relationship between architecture, space, the body, and the memories and moments that make us who we are,” the museum says.

    “Nest/s” (2024), installation view of ‘The Genesis Exhibition: Do Ho Suh: Walk the House’

    Visitors are invited to walk through “Nest/s,” for example, an expansive assemblage of colorful, sheer textile structures that link together to form a passageway or conduit. As the boundaries between interior and exterior are blurred, we’re invited to experience architecture from the perspective of movement and perception, highlighting how all of our interactions with other homes or places are inherently linked.

    Issues around shelter, safety, and community are inextricably tied to how we perceive home, especially when for many around the world, those basic needs are in constant peril or upended without warning. “Suh asks timely questions about the enigma of home, identity, and how we move through and inhabit the world around us,” a statement says.

    The Genesis Exhibition: Do Ho Suh: Walk the House continues in London through October 19. Plan your visit on the museum’s website, and follow updates on Suh’s Instagram.

    Detail of “Nest/s.” Photo by Jeon Taeg Su

    “Perfect Home: London, Horsham, New York, Berlin, Providence, Seoul” (2024), installation view of ‘The Genesis Exhibition: Do Ho Suh: Walk the House’

    Still from “Robin Hood Gardens, Woolmore Street, London E14 0HG” (2018), commissioned by the Victoria and Albert Museum, London

    “Nest/s” (2024), polyester and stainless steel, 410.1 x 375.4 x 2148.7 centimeters. Photo by Jeon Taeg Su

    Detail of “Rubbing/Loving Project: Seoul Home” (2013-2022), installation view at Museum of Contemporary Art Australia, Sydney, Australia. Photo by Sebastian Mrugalski

    “Home Within Home (1/9 Scale)” (2025), installation view of ‘The Genesis Exhibition: Do Ho Suh: Walk the House’

    “Nest/s” (2024), installation view of ‘The Genesis Exhibition: Do Ho Suh: Walk the House’

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