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    Tilda Swinton Is Getting Her Own Museum Show in Amsterdam

    Everyone’s favorite screen icon and fashion plate Tilda Swinton is taking the spotlight in a forthcoming exhibition celebrating her artistry and creative partnerships.
    Opening in September, “Tilda Swinton – Ongoing” is being developed by the actor exclusively for Eye Filmmuseum in Amsterdam. The outing, she said in a statement, is offering her the opportunity to revisit her four-decade career, during which she’s starred in films from experimental indies to big-budget Hollywood productions.
    It’s a working practice, she added, that has “come to rest on the—ever present—bedrock and battery of the close fellowships I found from the very first and continue to rely upon to this day.”
    Joseph Sacco, Oeil de Jeune Femme (1844) / Tilda Swinton, Fashion: Zac Posen, Francesco Scognamiglio and Gaspar Gloves, Houston, Texas, 2014 © Tim Walker.
    Ever since her film debut in 1986’s Caravaggio, Derek Jarman’s biopic of the hard-drinking Italian painter, Swinton has proven a head-turning, versatile presence on screen. Over a storied career, she’s played the gender-fluid lead in Sally Potter’s Orlando (1992), a harried lawyer in Michael Clayton (2007), a vampire in Jim Jarmusch’s dreamy Only Lovers Left Alive (2013), and an ancient sorcerer in Doctor Strange (2016).
    So chameleonic is Swinton that she’s played two, even three, separate roles in single films—see: Joanna Hogg’s The Eternal Daughter (2022) and Luca Guadagnino’s 2018 remake of Suspiria—sometimes disappearing beneath layers of makeup, prosthetics, and accent work. She’s nigh-on unrecognizable in Bong Joon-ho’s Snowpiercer (2013) and Julio Torres’s Problemista (2024), for two.
    Tilda Swinton and RZA in Problemista (2024). Photo: Jon Pack, courtesy of A24.
    “I don’t really look like people in films,” she reflected in 2014. “I look like people in paintings.”
    Throughout, Swinton has embarked on collaborations with the fashion world (with Viktor and Rolf for their 2003 outing, with photographer Tim Walker for an array of editorials) as well as artists including Doug Aitken and Lynn Hershman Leeson.
    The exhibition will delve into the various themes that surface in Swinton’s oeuvre, among them nature, memory, ancestors and spirits, and fellowships. To better unpack these ideas, the actor will be presenting eight works, six of them new, created with her choice collaborators.
    Tilda Swinton photographed by Jacqueline Lucas Palmer, 1991 © Jacqueline Lucas Palmer.
    Five of the pieces are co-helmed by filmmakers. Namely: Pedro Almodóvar, whose The Room Next Door (2024) starred Swinton and Julianne Moore as friends confronting death; Guadagnino, with whom she has made five films; Hogg, whose work with Swinton goes back to 1986; Jarmusch, who has directed her in four movies; and Apichatpong Weerasethakul, who cast Swinton in 2021’s Memoria.
    Another work takes the form of a performance and installation based on artifacts from Swinton’s personal archive, developed alongside celebrated fashion curator Olivier Saillard. Yet another piece, similarly exploring the actor’s roots, will be lensed by Walker, who lately photographed Swinton for a John Singer Sargent-inspired series, among other projects.
    Tilda Swinton as a child. © Swinton Archive.
    The eighth and final work serves as a tribute to Jarman, who died in 1994—a presentation of previously unseen material from the filmmaker’s 8mm archive, curated by Swinton.
    “In focusing attention on profoundly enriching creative relationships in my life,” said Swinton, “we share the narratives and atmospheres that inspire us: we offer new work, especially commissioned for the Eye exhibition, as the most recent gestures borne out of various companionable conversations that keep me curious, engaged, and nourished.”
    Tilda Swinton photographed by Ruediger Glatz, 2024 © Ruediger Glatz.
    This is not the first time Swinton has orchestrated an exhibition. In 2019, she helmed her first show, “Orlando,” at New York’s Aperture Foundation, bringing together 50 photographs by 11 artists that draw on the themes in Virginia Woolf’s playful novel, on which the 1992 film is based. Coming up, an exhibition of British designer Marianna Kennedy, overseen by Swinton, is set to open at Christie’s Paris in May.
    “Tilda Swinton – Ongoing” will be on view at Eye Filmmuseum, IJpromenade 1, 1031 KT Amsterdam, Netherlands, September 28, 2025–February 8, 2026. More

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    Bordercore: Why Frames Became the New Frontier in Contemporary Art

    Years ago, the artist Harry Gould Harvey IV came across a fallen black walnut tree in a friend’s yard. He experienced a moment of revelation and felt a sudden urge to make a frame for his drawings from the dying tree.
    “It defined my practice pretty starkly,” recalled Harvey, who is known for his gothic-inspired frames akin to polyptychs. After years of working as a professional photographer, Harvey, who is now represented by P.P.O.W., had turned to drawing as a more intimate form of expression. But he’d felt something was missing. In building frames from the world around him, he tapped into an atavistic connection to Fall River, Massachusetts, where he was born and raised. 
    “Working with found wood that has specific provenance to location and a certain history and carving it into frames became a way to contextualize the drawings with the value of place,” he said. Harvey is one of many contemporary artists who are choosing or creating borders for their works that push against the understated, unobtrusive frames that have dominated exhibition spaces for over a century. These artists are reclaiming the frame not only as a boundary, but as an extension of the artwork itself—a vessel for narrative, memory, and material resonance, drawing from the depths of art history in new ways.
    Harry Gould Harvey IV, Correspondence Radiator / Correspondence Resonator (Asteraceae) (2025). Courtesy of Harry Gould Harvey IV and P·P·O·W, New York © Harry Gould Harvey IV. Photo: JSP Art Photography.
    Art advisor Emily Sussman pointed out this tendency recently in her Substack “Metier.”  Sussman noted that artists are using frames as an extension of the work, writing that these are “a far cry from the ornate frames hanging around works in places like the Met, or the modernist and sleek frames found in contemporary stores (and chains like Framebridge) that certainly don’t distract nor detract from the art within.” She nodded to the work of artists Emma Kohlmann, Larissa Lockshin, Jenna Rothstein, and Stephanie Hemma Tier as emblematic of this trend. In Rothstein’s work, for instance, small-scale paintings on canvas are surrounded by frames of ceramic spiky teeth-like thorns or faux multi-color mosaics. 
    Meanwhile, a long-overlooked pioneer of contemporary framing recently received some overdue institutional accolades. Last fall, the New Museum Los Gatos, near San Jose, featured a solo exhibition of works by Holly Lane, a California artist who bucked the unwritten rule to keep frames minimalistic back in the 1980s. Lane instead milled elaborate wooden frames that harkened back to the Renaissance.
    “At that time, if a painting had a frame at all, it was a thin line, serving as protection for the art, and as a conceptual dividing line,” Lane recalled. “A good frame was to be inconspicuous. If I made the frame itself art, that was conspicuous and relevant to the painting, then I could erode that sense of a border and posit that art has no borders, especially to our mind and soul.”    
    Frames are finally back in the spotlight—call it bordercore. A new wave of contemporary art is reconsidering the frame as a central character, one that is surreal, sculptural, and symbolic. Artists are using the border not just to contain, but to comment, disrupt, or extend the work beyond itself. This is driven by an embrace of more bespoke, historic artistic processes, but also, as a rebuttal to the superflat virtual age. More and more, paintings have been appearing at fairs and in exhibitions with statement frames, after a long era of often-frameless display. If for previous generations, the frame was a liability that could detract from the cerebral, intellectual, and aesthetic experience of the canvas, artists today are creating frames that attempt to pull us back into bodily reality, a haptic experience of art.
    But First, a Brief Framing History
    Before we dive into the current fascination with frames, what do we need to know about their history? Where did those ubiquitous little black—or white—frames come from, anyway?
    Believe it or not, frames have been a hot-button topic for centuries. The concept of a frame as it is known today—a removable object around a work of art—has its roots in the 15th century, roughly coinciding with the rise of secular genres of European art (though framing devices date back to Greco-Roman times, too). But whether the frame was part of a work of art, an accent to it, or a potential distraction from creative genius, has been a tempestuous topic of debate among philosophers from Immanuel Kant to Jacques Derrida (Kant said frames were decidedly not art; Derrida didn’t exactly agree).  
    Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Bocca Baciata (1859). Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
    Surely enough, frames metamorphosed over the eras (art historian Lynn Roberts has independently recorded a history of frames on her website “The Frame Blog,” an invaluable resource on the myopically overlooked topic). The gilded ornamental frames, which are still so often seen in museums, had become popular in France by the 1700s. By the mid-to-late 1800s, with the dawn of industrialization, gilded frames that had previously been carved by hand gave way to lesser versions assembled from molds and paste. With this standardization, framemakers’ innovations and artistry waned, and frames became increasingly rote. At once, the Salon had codified gilded, rectangular frames for hanging—things were bleak. 
    By the 19th century, artists were rebelling, notably the Nazarenes in Germany and the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood in England, who each innovated unique frames for their works.  
    The Impressionists built on this momentum and thrust frames into modernity with insouciant gusto. In 1877, Pissarro and Degas debuted works at the Salon in scandalizing simple white architrave frames. The decision was partially born out of economy—these artists were poor. Still, it’s likely the artists were also inspired, in part, by the teachings of color theorist Eugene Chevreul, who believed that white lights heightened the effect of other hues. 
    Critics soon began to comment on the archetypal white frame as we know it today. Things were just kicking off, however, and as Modernism gained ascendancy in the 20th century, frames continued their streamlining. The canvas was a supreme and transcendent place of contemplation, and frames, in this view, best fade into the background and let artistry take the spotlight. 
    Frida Kahlo, Diego and Frida 1929–1944 (1944). Courtesy of the Dallas Museum of Art.
    For a stretch, the measures to make frames invisible reached a near-comic peak. In the mid-century, “frameless” hanging techniques were popularized, encouraged by the debut of bildträger, or clip frames. For a generation of Modernists, these framing devices offered the quasi-philosophical fulfillment of art presented as boundless, seemingly floating in space. Still, there were moments of controversy: a 1949 exhibition of Giovanni Bellini’s work at the Palazzo Ducale, in Venice, displayed the Renaissance masterpieces in modernist contraptions under the direction of celebrated architect Carlo Scarpa, rather than replicas of historic frames, to the delight of some and dismay of others.  
    But even over these nadir decades, many artists embraced the frame. Wassily Kandinsky, Frida Kahlo, Georgia O’Keeffe, Florine Stettheimer, and many others, designed, purchased, built, and painted unique frames for their works. 
    Reframing History—And the Present  
    For some contemporary artists, the historical significance of the frame is front of mind. Among these is New York City artist Valerie Hegarty who creates multi-media sculptural works that look as though centuries-old paintings—and their frames—have endured the cataclysmic elements and the ruinous effects of time. She makes these works using a motley assortment of materials including wood, canvas, wire, air-dry clay, foil, tape, epoxy, acrylics, foam core, thread, paper, and more. 
    Hegarty’s works often reprise heroic landscape paintings à la the Hudson River School—but with a post-apocalyptic twist. A 2007 work, for instance, reimagines Albert Bierstadt’s 1869 painting Niagara Falls; in Hegarty’s work, the painting is torn, its frame, twisted, charred and all spilling downward from the wall toward the ground.  
    Valerie Heagerty, Niagara Falls (2007). Courtesy of Artist
    “I grew up in a house filled with Americana and early knockoffs of American landscape paintings. This idea of Manifest Destiny, virgin wilderness, and American identity, is so tied to landscape painting,” Hegarty explained in conversation. “To me, in a museum, a frame meant the narrative was set. That this was truth. Breaking the frame is questioning the narrative, exploding the narrative, or suggesting that there is something wrong with it.”  
    By disrupting the frame, she attempts to pull viewers into conversation and into the timeline of history itself. Her work Fallen Bierstadt in the collection of the Brooklyn Museum has often stopped visitors in their tracks to ask what has happened to the work. 
    “There’s this idea that the paintings are timeless when they’re framed. The bigger the frame, the more important the narrative. When you are making the painting decay, it’s questioning that idea of timelessness or the truth of the narrative, but also referencing the materials and maintenance that goes into keeping these paintings in pristine shape,” she added.  
    Kang Seung Lee, Untitled (Constellation) (2023) on the ground, with works by Romany Eveleigh on the wall behind. Photo by Ben Davis.
    Kang Seung Lee, who is represented by Alexander Gray Associates, designs frames made from a variety of wood burls that also engage with history. At times, these frames are positioned horizontally, on the ground, as with his installation Untitled (Constellation), which was on view at the 60th Venice Biennale last year, and which shifts perception, physically. “In some ways, the work resembles mood or vision boards meditating the juxtaposition of information and context,” he explained. “To me, it was like creating a fertile ground.” This installation, like many of Lee’s works, examines queer histories across many geographical locations, countries, and continents, offering a diffuse rather than didactic approach to history and welcoming into the fold stories that have long been kept on history’s margins. 
    The Sacred and the Surreal  
    What can the medieval marginalia of illuminated manuscripts—books with painted decoration that includes precious metals such as gold or silver—tell us about our current moment of inspired and even outlandish framing? It’s an unexpected question, but a fruitful one. For artist Holly Lane, the bawdy and beatific doodles in medieval manuscripts sparked her frame-building journey. As a student at San Jose State University in the mid-1980s, she came across illuminated manuscripts in the library and was mesmerized by the way the scrolling borders visually commented on the text.
    “Sometimes the borders had naughty creatures spoofing the text, even mooning the text—that was my moment of epiphany,” Lane said. “I realized that a frame could be many things; it could be a commentary, an informing context, it could extend movement, it could be a conceptual or formal elaboration, it could embody ancillary ideas, it could be a shelter, it could be an environment, it could be like a body that houses and expresses the mind, and many other rich permutations.”
    Stephanie Temma Hier, Hide and Seek (2022). Courtesy of the artist and Gallery Vacancy.
    She began to build frames that fused frame and painting, at times even including doors that opened and closed over her paintings—often German Romantic-inspired landscapes. “I envision the frames not as a border, but as a conceptual and formal elaboration, embodying ancillary ideas, setting up pattern rhythms, extending movement, shape rhyming, enshrining,” said Lane.  
    Frames and paintings form a similarly symbiotic, elaborative relationship in the work of Brooklyn-based ceramicist Stephanie Temma Hier. Her delightfully decadent works marry surrealistic, sculptural ceramic frames—a toothy mouth, mollusks, bunches of carrots—with startlingly juxtaposed oil paintings—men wrestling, en pointe ballet slippers, and bountiful heaps of food. Not unlike manuscript marginalia, her ceramic frames form associative games with the paintings inside them.  
    CARO, Is It the Same For You?. Courtesy of the artist.
    Meanwhile, the London- and New York-based multimedia artist CARO has also reinterpreted illuminated manuscripts. Several years ago, the artist, who is trained in jewelry production, was mulling over the boundaries between art and craft and experimenting with merging embroidery and metalwork.  
    “I felt like what was keeping embroidery back from acceptance in the art world was the hoop, the circular frame. I thought if I can make a rectangle, I can show my work as though it is a painting,” she explained. “In making these works, I was inspired by illuminated manuscripts.”
    Almendra Bertoni, I Think I Have Been Healing (2024). Courtesy of the artist.
    With a touch of humor, the New York artist Almendra Bertoni combines aspects of the sacred and the surreal winkingly in her colorful works. Despite the hyper-modern sleekness of Bertoni’s aesthetics, she works with wood panels for her compositions and frames—a material often associated with religious icons of centuries past. Grappling with themes of femininity, rage, and sexual and religious taboos; her frames, which she cuts and paints herself, have taken the forms of oversized ribbons or balloon-like flowers. 
    More recently, however, she’s embraced quasi-Catholic imagery, her frames echoing the shapes of praying hands, doves, and serpents. The artist, who was born in Buenos Aires, and raised in Miami, acknowledges the influence of both Renaissance art and contemporary churches. 
    “In my work, these religious themes are a way of challenging doctrine but also thinking about devotion in a respectful way,” said Bertoni. But her works, with their trompe l’oeil frames, also nod to Surrealism, and artists such as Salvador Dali, Frida Kahlo, and Leonor Fini. Bold, bright frames can, Bertoni added “serve as a way of reaching the otherworldly, of breaking the bounds of that square canvas.”  
    Bold Frames in a Flattened Age 
    If the myriad contemporary artists innovating frames had a rallying cry it might be: Joy in materiality!  
    For some, the material makeup of their frames holds potent significance. Harvey, the artist who made a frame with a fallen black walnut tree, describes his frames as a “provenance, almost a ready-made setting.” For a recent project at Shanghai’s Rockbund Art Museum, he made frames from wood cut down on the land of the Delano family in Massachusetts, who he said were among the most successful opium smugglers, and the grandparents to Franklin Delano Roosevelt. “Showing frames carved with this wood is a direct, economic, cultural, and linguistic invocation, and allowed me to bridge that history to now,” said Harvey.  
    Kang Seung Lee, Untitled (Lazaro, Jose Leonilson 1993) (2023). Collection of MASP (Museu de Arte de São Paulo), Brazil Photo: Paul Salveson
    Kang Seung Lee’s frames hold similar material resonance. In a recent series called “In Skin,” Lee looked to aging queer bodies as both living personal and political archives and source wood for his frames that would reflect a dendrochronology, using maple, olive tree, redwood, and walnut sourced mostly from naturally fallen trees on the West Coast.
    For other artists, such as Alicia Adamerovich of Timothy Taylor gallery, who has made unique wooden frames for her biomorphic drawings, creating frames was a chance to make frames as sincerely curious as the drawings themselves. “The hectic nature of everything we consume on a daily basis pushes some artists to drift towards making repetitive, super cohesive, and almost branded work,” she said, “For me, it caused a desire to make things that jump around in some way, either aesthetically or conceptually.”
    Brooklyn ceramicist Stephanie Temma Hier believes that the physicality of her frames resists the permeating, flattening aesthetic afoot in today’s culture. She no longer sees her frames and paintings as being distinct from each other. Instead, through their unexpected union, these hybrid artworks jolt viewers back into the material world. 
    Stephanie Temma Hier, Cat’s Cradle (2022). Courtesy of the artist and Bradley Ertaskiran Gallery.
    “Paintings are not just images, they are made from pigments, fabrics, wood, and metal,” she explained. “Even the Modernists were obsessed with the thickness of the paint and how that contributed to the feeling of the image. Now paintings are so often flattened by the photographs that represent them, that we can forget that the objects possess a real presence. Yet somehow when a painting is framed by a sculptural, non-rectangular frame it can reanimate its presence on the wall.” 
    Bertoni, meanwhile, put it succinctly: “I think about algorithms and how our attention spans are just so shortened now that you want to experiment in ways to get people to stop scrolling.” 
    But, for these artists, not just the art lovers need to take a moment—the artists do too. CARO, who is studying jewelry techniques known by a dwindling handful of aging artisans, sees her labor-intensive works as a visual speed bump.  
    Holly Lane, The Mooring Hour When Sky is Nearer than Skin (2009). Courtesy of the artist.
    “The belief is forward is always better,” she said “’I’m a bit of a contrarian, but there’s so much to be said for slowness. We can learn a lot by studying history. Progress isn’t always linear. I’m always trying to valorize methods of working that are aligned with a slower pace, circadian at the pace of the body and the natural world.” 
    An early adopter of intricate frames, Holly Lane aims to engage both the mental and visual experiences of art. “I see pictorial space as mind space as we must project our minds into the painting,” she said, “While the spatial qualities of [a sculptural frame] exists in our own physical space; we walk around it, proportion our bodies to it—so in part, [it] is apprehended or “seen” by the body.”  In this way, bold frames try, however fleetingly, to pull our minds back into the experience of our bodies.  More

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    Beloved Life-Sized Elephant Sculptures Rumble Into Texas

    The herd is on the move! The hit traveling public art show “The Great Elephant Migration,” featuring 100 Indian elephants crafted by Indigenous artisans from invasive weeds, just arrived in Houston. It is free to the public and on view Hermann Park, roving across the Commons with smaller groups outside the Houston Museum of Natural Science and the Texas Medical Center.
    “The Great Elephant Migration is more than an art installation—it is a call to action and a place to experience joy,” Cara Lambright, the president CEO of the Hermann Park Conservancy, said in a statement. “We are inviting our community to be part of a worldwide movement to protect ecosystems, eradicate invasive species, and inspire change. These are shared values that span continents.”
    Each individual sculpture is based on a real-life elephant, mostly ones living in the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve in south India. But the Houston edition of the show is adding the herd’s largest member yet, memorializing the late, 10-foot-tall Kenyan elephant Matt, who died in 2019 at the age of 52. His migration across the country, tracked by GPS since 2002, provided researchers invaluable insight into the lives and movements of African elephants.
    “The Great Elephant Migration” is the brainchild of Ruth Ganesh, a trustee of the U.K. NGO Elephant Family, which is dedicated to saving Asian elephants. The project is a fundraising effort, and has already sold over $3 million-worth of life-size sculptures to benefit 22 conservation non-governmental organizations, or NGOs. A baby elephant costs $8,000, while an adult male, known as a “tusker,” tops out at $26,000.
    “The Great Elephant Migration” in Houston. Photo by Tasha Gorel.
    Ganesh has previously spearheaded other art fundraising initiatives to support the species, such as the Big Egg Hunt, a public art installation of large-scale artist-designed eggs that appeared in New York in 2014 and is currently on view in London, where it first debuted in 2012.
    With scientist and elephant researcher Tarsh Thekaekara, Ganesh founded the Real Elephant Collective, the 200-member strong artisan group in Nilgiri that makes each sculpture. (As the herd crisscrosses the globe, the artisans make new elephants to order for each new purchase.)
    “The Great Elephant Migration” in Houston. Photo by Sam Houston.
    “Creating these elephants provides financial stability, status, and pride to 200 members of the Soligas, Bettakurumbas, Kattunayakan, and Paniyas communities, who coexist with the real wild elephants the herd is based on,” Ganesh said in a statement.
    The sculptures are made from lantana camara, which is an invasive species in both India and Texas. In addition to harvesting the plant to be used for the artwork, the project is also using it to make nutrient-rich biochar, a black carbon made from agricultural waste products.
    “The Great Elephant Migration” in Houston. Photo courtesy of Houston First.Corporation
    As the local NGO beneficiary in Houston, the Hermann Park Conservancy will use its share of the project proceeds to fight the spread of invasive species in the park. One of Houston’s most beloved green spaces, Hermann Park features a variety of landscapes, from native grasslands to prairies to wooded areas.
    “The Great Elephant Migration” first launched during India’s Kochi Biennale in 2019. It appeared in London in 2021, and in 2024 at the Lalbagh Botanical Garden in Bangalore, India, before heading to the U.S. last summer. After making their way down the East Coast, from Newport, Rhode Island, down to New York and Miami Beach, the elephants have now begun their journey West.
    “The Great Elephant Migration” in Houston. Photo courtesy of Houston First.Corporation
    They will reach their final destination of Los Angeles in July, after further stops in Jackson Hole, Wyoming and Browning, Montana. The final leg of the journey will see the herd travel via a convoy of electric trucks adorned with traditional Indian lorry art.
    “The Great Elephant Migration” is on view in Hermann Park, 6001-6399 Fannin Street, Houston, Texas, April 1–30, 2025.  More

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    Handmade Craft Meets High Fashion in a Tokyo Exhibition

    On a breezy spring evening in Tokyo, as the cherry blossoms stirred into bloom, a cohort of artists, craftspeople, and tastemakers gathered in Harajuku for an exhibition that felt distinctly of the moment.
    Japan has long revered craft, from ceramics and lacquerware to centuries-old textile traditions, a rich history embodied by master artisans designated as “Living National Treasures.”
    LOEWE “Crafted World”, Tokyo. Courtesy LOEWE.
    Yet today, aesthetic tastes are shifting, particularly amid new expectations for the world’s fourth-largest economy, which has long stagnated in the “lost decades” since the asset price bubble burst in 1990. The combined wealth of the country’s richest 50 people is an estimated $200 billion, and younger generations are being courted at warp speed by luxury boutiques and contemporary art events like Art Week Tokyo, Art Collaboration Kyoto, and Tokyo Gendai.
    This new generation isn’t flocking to traditional craft with the same devotion as their parents. Nor are they wholly taken in by the hype of luxury fashion or the conceptual edge of contemporary art. But in the places where these worlds meet—something is stirring.
    LOEWE “Crafted World”, Tokyo. Courtesy LOEWE.
    Enter “Crafted World,” an exhibition that traces the nearly 180-year history of Spanish fashion brand Loewe. Since 2013, under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson (who stepped down in March, and is widely rumored to be heading to Dior), the brand has become a cultural force. The New York Times recently credited the Irish designer with transforming the brand from what had been “a minor Spanish leathergoods house” into “a cultural lodestar.” Anderson achieved this by emphasizing craft, drawing on art history—from surrealism to the avant-garde—as inspiration for his designs, filling stores with works from the Loewe Foundation art collection, and initiatives like the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize.
    “When Jonathan asked [us] to create a Craft Prize, it was a magic moment for me, the chance to make one of my father’s long-standing dreams come true,” foundation president Sheila Loewe told me, adding that the prize, founded in 2016, is her proudest initiative. “Craft has always been one of my father’s great passions and when he created the Loewe Foundation 37 years ago to support culture and the arts, it was always his ambition that eventually we would have a prize dedicated to craft.”
    LOEWE “Crafted World”, Tokyo. Courtesy LOEWE.
    “I think Jonathan’s success was in identifying and nurturing what had been there since the beginning at Loewe: a true and deep love for craft” Loewe added, “and his legacy will be that culture is now a part of everything that Loewe does.”
    Nowhere is that clearer than in the house’s own universe of sculptural creations, from Lynda Benglis’s resin bangles to the latest runway references to fiber artist Anni Albers. Monumental works like Anthea Hamilton’s enormous leather pumpkins and Haegue Yang’s plastic-twine sculptures, which have served as striking visual anchors for the runway presentations, sit alongside works by Craft Prize finalists and other artists who’ve inspired the brand’s sensibility, from Picasso’s ceramics to Studio Ghibli characters by Hayao Miyazaki.
    LOEWE “Crafted World”, Tokyo. Courtesy LOEWE.
    Of the works on view, I was drawn to the visual trickery of a speckled, swirling vessel by Takayuki Sakiyama, etched with ripple marks, as if the solid ceramic could crumble like sand. Contrarily, Annie Turner’s red-grogged stoneware clay Net, glazed with lithium and fired with yellow-iron oxide, visually transformed this fragile object into a weathered, rusted lobster trap. Nearby, an enigmatic cube coated in an oil-slick sheen by Tomonari Hashimoto, known for large-scale ceramics that often require the construction of custom kilns, looked like an object from outer space.
    I spoke with Genta Ishizuka, who works with urushi laquer, a traditional sap technique dating from around the 7th or 8th century. Ishizuka won the Craft Prize in 2019, and his winning object, Surface Tactility #11 (2018), is a lustrous form inspired by a bulging bag of oranges, which has been buffed and polished to a tortoise-shell effect. Lacquerware—with its painstaking layering and cure times—is finding renewed attention. Genta told me he prefers the medium to ceramics as, despite the inherent quirks of working with natural materials, it offers more control over the outcome than resigning to the fortunes of the kiln.
    LOEWE “Crafted World”, Tokyo. Courtesy LOEWE.
    In an age when “luxury” has become synonymous with overconsumption and spectacle, “Crafted World” offers a reminder that the roots of refinement lie in the handmade. The exhibition positions craft as a living language, shared between generations, disciplines, and cultures. And in doing so, it gestures to a shift happening across the contemporary art world: the slow undoing of the false binary between artist and artisan.
    Yet for some makers, that line still serves a purpose: not to divide, but to clarify intent.
    “The difference between a craftsman and an artist,” Genta Ishizuka offered, “is that a craftsman needs to make the same thing over and over again by hand. I’m also using my hands—but this piece is only coming out once. That’s what makes me an artist.”
    It would seem then, in a copy-paste culture obsessed with speed and homogeneity,  the most radical thing an artist—or a brand—can do is slow down. To trace a line with the hand. To make something singular, and to mean it.
    “Crafted World Tokyo” is on view at 6-35-6 Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo until May 11. More

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    How Guerrilla Girls Are Celebrating Four Decades of Art World Disruption

    In 1985, a group of anonymous women artists came together under the moniker the Guerrilla Girls, taking the art world to task for its abominable representation—or rather, the lack thereof—of women artists, Black artists, and other minority groups. Their bold posters laid bare the systemic inequities of the art world with sharp humor, backed up by well-researched statistics. That was 40 years ago.
    “It’s really hard to believe. We literally had the idea to put a couple of posters up on the streets of New York, and all hell broke loose,” founding Guerrilla Girl Käthe Kollwitz told me. (The members all go by the names of deceased women artists.)
    The collective’s long history of holding the art world accountable and exposing its discrimination in race, gender, and class is being rightly celebrated in this anniversary year. A major New York moment includes not one but two gallery shows, at Hannah Traore Gallery (which closed over the weekend) and Mary Ryan Gallery. And later this month, the National Museum of Women in the Arts (NMWA) in Washington, D.C., the world’s first museum dedicated exclusively to women artists, is staging a major solo show of its Guerrilla Girl holdings. (There’s also a show right now at the National Gallery in Sofia, Bulgaria.)
    “With the fact that it is the Guerrilla Girls’ 40th anniversary, it felt like the right moment to revisit and be re-inspired and reinvigorated by their work,” NMWA associate curator Hannah Shambroom told me. “They lay out these issues that were an undercurrent in the art world. In art history courses, the under representation of women and artists of color is something that’s not present, because their actual presence is missing—but it’s noticeable throughout. The Guerrilla Girls make that absence very obvious.”
    The opening reception for “Discrimi-NATION: Guerrilla Girls on Bias, Money, and Art” at Hannah Traore Gallery, New York. Photo by Deonté Lee, courtesy of BFA.
    The collective is receiving an award at the institution’s upcoming gala, and has mounted a campaign to encourage museum donors to help NMWA acquire the entirety of the “Portfolio Compleat,” of every work the Guerrilla Girls have ever made. (The current holdings are missing about 75 works from the portfolio, which comprises 134 posters, nine videos, two newsletters, and six books.)
    “As the preeminent museum of women artists in the United States, NMWA should have the complete record of the Guerrilla Girls’ work,” Frida Kahlo, another founding member, told me.
    Guerrilla Girls, Guerrilla Girls ManifestA: For Art Museums Everywhere (2024). Collection of the National Museum of Women in the Arts, Museum, Washington, D.C., purchase: Members’ Acquisition Fund.
    The show includes work ranging from 1985 to the present day, ending with the 2024 work Guerrilla Girls ManifestA: For Art Museums Everywhere. That acquisition included the physical poster as well as a high-resolution digital file that institutions are able to reproduce for exhibition purposes. An enlargement on vinyl will be adhered directly to the wall. (That’s the same way the posters were shown at Hannah Traore, where ManifestA was also the centerpiece.)
    The work is a list of challenges to museums, such as to “REPATRIATE pillaged, smuggled, and looted artifacts in your collection” and “HONOR your employees, never undermine their efforts to unionize, and pay them a living wage with benefits.”
    In the decades since their founding, the collective, its members clad in their signature, identity-obscuring gorilla masks, has become a powerful force for art world activism in the fight for inclusivity, their message resonating with generations of women. More

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    Why Feminist Artist Linder Is Taking Control by ‘Deepfaking’ Herself

    Amid the rise of the so-called “manosphere” of rampant online misogyny and pressures to perform palatable womanhood to a global audience via social media, is it time for a resurgence of feminist art? Many would surely say yes. The movement first emerged in the 1960s and ’70s, and many cult favorites have been enjoying renewed popularity in recent years, including Linder. The English artist, now aged 70, is the subject of a short retrospective at the Hayward Gallery in London, on view through May 5.
    Much writing about Linder has focused on her wry photomontages from the 1970s and ’80s, which cut up and reassembled imagery from men’s and women’s magazines so that pornographic scenes were overlaid with domestic appliances that foreground the real drudgery inherent to many women’s lives. Though these works are rightfully celebrated, “Linder: Danger Came Smiling” proves that the artist’s roving eye never stopped eviscerating society in the intervening decades. In fact, her recent works are among her most exciting.
    Linder certainly believes her montages, old and new, “seem more vital than ever,” as she said during a recent interview with the Hayward’s director Ralph Rugoff. “You hear about deepfake A.I. and women’s bodies being grafted,” she explained. “The head of a pretty 18-year-old can be grafted onto a pornographic body and sent out into cyberspace. We have very very little control over our images.”
    Linder, Linder, The Most Sacred Monster of Photomontage in Her Time (2025) featuring portrait of Linder by Benoît Hennebert. Image courtesy of dépendance, Brussels.
    In an attempt to wrest back some control, Linder decided to deepfake herself “before anyone else got to do it” for her two most recent works in the show, including Linder, The Most Sacred Monster of Photomontage in Her Time from 2025. A black-and-white headshot of a younger, frowning Linder hovers over a fiery red landscape and a woman’s naked torso. Scissors, a shell, a fork, jewelry, and a snake have been collaged together to make a crown-like headpiece.
    The title refers to Salvador Dalí’s Shirley Temple: The Youngest, Most Sacred Monster of the Cinema in Her Time (1939), which manipulates the young actress’s image by placing her face onto the body of a sphinx with strangely pert breasts. It has often been read as a commentary on the sexualization of child stars.
    Considering the darker possible applications of A.I. to humiliate women is not the only way in which Linder’s work continues to engage with our time. Nearby, Did he prefer her to us? (2023) prominently features a portrait by Hazel Gaskin of the former porn star-turned-media personality Mia Khalifa with a snake woven through her crown. It is a fitting tribute by Linder after so many decades spent studying the silent women who fill men’s magazines.
    Linder, Did he prefer her to us? (2023). Photo: Hazel Gaskin, courtesy of Modern Art, London.
    These days, Khalifa is a vocal advocate for sex workers’ rights and her portrait was taken just after she had spoken at the Oxford Union about how she learned to protect herself in the adult entertainment industry. In another portrait, I was to you a garment (2023), her strength is apparent as she wears Linder’s old breastplate, which the artist once used for boxing, a practice she adopted for self-defense.
    “[Khalifa has] been taken to hell and back again for one film that she participated in during her early twenties, threatened with death, yet still she stands proud and loud,” Linder said for the exhibition’s catalog. “It was extraordinary working with Mia, witnessing her control of her image within the frame of a photograph and her innate understanding of her body in space.”
    One constant in Linder’s work has been her use of what she terms the “scalpel” to dissect her source material before physically piecing together a montage. “When you have Photoshop, it’s quite an eccentric act to still print media and to cut it up and to glue it,” she said. “It’s quite a visceral way of working because of the smell of must in a lot of those magazines, or maybe perfume or pipe smoke.”
    Installation view of “Linder: Danger Came Smiling” at the Hayward Gallery in London featuring The Pool of Life (2021). Photo: Mark Blower. Courtesy the artist and the Hayward Gallery.
    One of Linder’s largest ever photomontages, The Pool of Life (2021), was recently blown up to become The Bower of Bliss, a billboard in the central shopping district of Liverpool to advertise the city’s biennial that year. It is filled with classic Linder motifs, including flowers out of body parts, butterflies, shells, and disembodied lips and eyes. Its name references psychoanalyst Carl Jung’s famous description of Liverpool, although he only ever saw it in his dreams.
    The work was “on the front line of of popular culture in the city where I grew up,” mused Linder in the exhibition catalogue. “That work is my love letter to the women and queer communities of Liverpool.” She added: “Goods moved through the city at a tremendous pace, along with ideas, pop music or pilfered swag from the docks, football stars, fashion. And from Liverpool they went out across the country and often across the globe.”
    Renewed interest in Linder’s work is proof that feminist art is only becoming more relevant. “When we look at artists’ careers, it can look like a glorious ascent,” remarked Linder, during the recent talk at the Hayward Gallery. “But we know that for various reasons, artists more often become visible, then invisible, then we become visible again. It often just depends on the culture at large, rather than our practice, which we sustain quite faithfully.”
    Arguably, the artist’s ideas have only been sharpened over the decades, culminating in even smarter works. “In recent years we have seen the full force that is Linder explode in her depth of research and her realized ambitions that span photography and photomontage, performance, music, fragrance design, and fashion,” commented Linder’s gallerist Tim Blum. “She continues to mine subject matter and explore form—always experimenting, always illuminating new shadows of the collective unconscious with her radical feminist visual lexicon.”
    Linder herself took a moment to reflect on the occasion of her retrospective. “The experience of regarding decades of work is quite sublime,” she said. “So many of my generation did not make it to this point.”
    “Linder: Danger Came Smiling” is on view through May 5, 2025 at the Hayward Gallery, Southbank Centre, London. More

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    Pharrell Williams Puts Black Womanhood in the Spotlight at Powerful Paris Show

    Black womanhood—its joys, beauty, and power—is taking center stage at a major group show in Paris. Its mastermind? Multi-hyphenate Pharrell Williams, who curated the exhibition with a personal lens.
    “Women have been such a force in my life—from my grandmothers to my mother, to my wife, my daughter, my nieces, my cousins, people on my team, and people on our extended bench,” he told Euronews. “Women are an amazing force for good in the world.”
    Carrie Mae Weems, Nina (2009–25). Photo: David Regen. © Carrie Mae Weems. Courtesy of the artist and Gladstone Gallery, New York, Fraenkel Gallery, San Francisco, and Galerie Barbara Thumm, Berlin.
    “FEMMES” at Perrotin Paris brings together nearly 40 artists, most of them women. Collectively, these works demonstrate the sheer breadth of Black creativity, while exploring threads from motherhood to identity.
    These artists were picked, Emmanuel Perrotin told Wallpaper, “after several brainstormings and back-and-forths between Pharrell and my team.” And while the organizers could not include all the artists they hoped to, he added, “we have a large group, and a very good group.”
    Installation view of “FEMMES,” curated by Pharrell Williams at Perrotin Paris, 2025. Photo: Claire Dorn. Courtesy of all the artists and Perrotin. © ADAGP, Paris, 2025.
    The cross-generational show sees Betye Saar’s richly symbolic assemblages rubbing shoulders with Nina Chanel Abney’s bold canvases, with Esther Mahlangu’s abstractions sitting alongside Carrie Mae Weems’s out-of-focus photographic series. As compelling are the themes unearthed: Zanele Muholi and Henry Taylor’s pieces examine ever-evolving Black portraiture, while works by Malala Andrialavidrazana and Jess Atieno engage with collective history and memory.
    Betye Saar, Illusion of Freedom (2009). Photo: Paul Salveson. © BetyeSaar. Courtesy of the artist and Roberts Projects, Los Angeles.
    Williams’s touch is evident throughout, the gallery pointed out. The visual language of pop culture—in which the singer, songwriter, and producer is firmly entrenched—is echoed in the exhibition. It’s in Tschabalala Self’s vivid screenprints, which complicate cultural representations of the Black body, and in Todd Gray’s photomontages, rich with layers of meaning.
    Nina Chanel Abney, Marabou (2024). Courtesy of Nina Chanel Abney and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York. © Nina Chanel Abney.
    As creative director of Louis Vuitton Men’s, Williams has also overseen a display of textile artworks at the exhibition. Among them are Georgina Maxim, whose works repurpose fabrics to rewrite their histories; Tandiwe Muriu, who draws on the richness of African textiles for her eye-popping photographs; and Katia St. Hilaire, whose tapestries re-center Haitian history.
    Kathia St. Hilaire, Mami ta yunai (2023). Photo: Guillaume Ziccarelli. Courtesy of the artist and Perrotin.
    “He has a very open mind to the art world,” Perrotin said of Williams’s curation. “We organized this show with a lot of freedom. And yes, [Pharrell’s] list surprised me. It [features] a lot of artists I had no idea existed. And that’s why we take curators, to discover things. To open the prism. It’s very interesting.”
    Williams and Perrotin go way back. The pair first connected in 2007 at a Miami pool party, bonding over a shared love for Takashi Murakami and the Japanese art scene. Their shared attitudes were immediately evident at the 2014 exhibition “G I R L,” the musician and gallerist’s first collaboration. Named after Williams’s hit album, it was curated by Williams to include a host of heavy hitters such as Tracey Emin, Ryan McGinley, Guerrilla Girls, and Marina Abramović.
    Pharrell Williams, Emmanuel Perrotin, Louise Thurin, and the artists: Alex Gardner, Robert Pruitt, Kenturah Davis, Lauren Kelley, Kennedy Yanko, Theresa Chromati, Naomi Lulendo, Georgina Maxim, Thandiwe Muriu, Kenia Almaraz Murillo, Emma Prempeh, Mequitta Ahuja, Kathia St. Hilaire, Zéh Palito, Todd Gray, and Eden Tinto Collins. Photo: Tanguy Beurdeley, courtesy Perrotin
    As a follow-up, “FEMMES” hopes to lend greater visibility to the artists on view, while serving as a powerful affirmation of Black womanhood. “I wouldn’t be here if it wasn’t for a Black woman,” as Williams told Wallpaper.
    “When we considered doing the show again, we remembered how much impact it had, and how I was able to leverage my platform. To give volume and visibility to female artists, how powerful it felt,” he added. “And as you consider everything that’s going on right now, how much more impactful it could be if we were to do this one even a little more focused than before. To be an homage to Black women.”
    “FEMMES” is on view at Perrotin, 76 rue de Turenne, Paris, France, through April 19. More

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    Rock Icon Alison Mosshart’s Freewheeling Art Lands in New York: ‘There Are No Rules’

    For the next two weeks, the Nili Lotan menswear store in Lower Manhattan is getting an arty infusion. On its walls, where photographs once hung, are now displayed paintings and collages by Alison Mosshart, artist and frontwoman of rock duo the Kills. Some are small abstract works and photomontages; others are large text-based canvases. The effect, Lotan told me at the opening of the exhibition, is “just really free and bold.”
    But even before Mosshart’s art descended on the store, the space already boasted a rock-and-rolling flair. Amid racks of Lotan’s understated men’s fashions sits a large bookshelf stacked with records and books about music, accompanied by two guitars resting on stands—most from the personal collection of the designer’s husband, musician David Broza. That Lotan would find a kindred spirit in Mosshart is unsurprising.
    Installation view of “NO SLOW SONGS” at Nili Lotan. Photo: Sansho Scott / BFA.com.
    “It’s not so much about the music, but it’s that free spirit on stage, the fearlessness, and the boldness, that I’m drawn to and inspires me,” Lotan said. “With Alison, it was her fearless self-expression in the world—and that laugh—that connected us to each other.”
    This show, titled “NO SLOW SONGS,” marks Mosshart’s first solo exhibition in New York since 2018. But it emerges from her ongoing visual art practice, which has run alongside her music career. The sleeves of the Kills’s albums, for one, are as much a part of her and bandmate Jamie Hince’s creative project as their contents. For this latest outing, though, Mosshart had to work with speed; it was pulled together in about three weeks.
    Alison Mosshart, NO SLOW SONGS (2025), on view at “NO SLOW SONGS” at Nili Lotan. Photo: Sansho Scott / BFA.com.
    “Nili asked me if I wanted to do a show in the store. I was like, absolutely, any excuse to do any show. It’s so fun,” Mosshart told me at the show’s opening. “Then all of a sudden, it was real, and it happened. I had only a couple weeks at home to do it, but I just had so much fun being in my studio again.”
    What dominates the space are her wildly colorful abstractions such as The Whole Animal (2025) and Skuxxx Rizzz (2025), mélanges of paint and photo snippets. Her expressive collages lean toward the surreal: both I Am the Way (2025) and Fast Break (2025) juxtapose snapshots of a drummer girl against images of dolls and stuffed animals. Prices for the works range from $1,900 to $5,500.
    Installation view of “NO SLOW SONGS” at Nili Lotan. Photo: Sansho Scott / BFA.com.
    There’s a spontaneity to all of it. Her Self-Portrait (2025), she said, started as a painting, before she “just kept adding things to it so you just couldn’t tell it’s me at all.”
    Same with some of Mosshart’s earlier works, which she recently unearthed from under her bed in Los Angeles. Lined up on one wall of the store, the series from 2008 is all impressionistic marks created on paper with makeup. There are smudges of foundation, smears of mascara, and flashes of nail polish.
    “These are all paintings I made in London and the oldest things I probably still have,” she explained. “I made them all with old, expired makeup I was gonna throw away. But then I was like, oh no, these are, like, the most expensive things in the world. So, there’s nine of them. I just love them so much.”
    Installation view of “NO SLOW SONGS” at Nili Lotan. Photo: Sansho Scott / BFA.com.
    Also included here are watercolors, vivid paintings on Polaroid photographs, and a large acrylic work that greets visitors at the entrance with the painted phrase “EXCEPT WHEN NO ONE IS AROUND.” The range of mediums is remarkable, with Mosshart seemingly working from instinct as much as play.
    “It’s just doing whatever that I thought. I’m gonna do photo stuff. I want to cut things out. I want to glue things down. Now I’m just covered in paint. Now I’m gonna do watercolors,” she said. “There are no rules to this.”
    Alison Mosshart, EXCEPT WHEN NO ONE IS AROUND (2025), on view at “NO SLOW SONGS” at Nili Lotan. Photo: Sansho Scott / BFA.com.
    But there clearly is a restlessness at the heart of Mosshart’s art practice.
    Case in point: her ongoing creative project, CHOP SHOP, now in its eighth year, for which she creates dozens of artworks for sale. Last year saw her produce a multitude of paintings on playing cards (also seen on the cover of the Kills’s double single “LA Hex / New York”); more recently, she offered a host of photo-based works (which is when I nabbed one). With a body of work like the playing cards, she noted, “I can constantly make them.”
    Even the life of a touring musician (she’s fresh off the Patti Smith tribute concert at Carnegie Hall) can’t slow her down.
    “You’re really, really busy, and then you have this really strange amount of time when you’re trapped with the idea that you can’t leave and you have to wait,” she said of life on the road. “That’s when I make—it makes me not go insane. My hands are never still.”
    “NO SLOW SONGS” is on view at Nili Lotan, 183 Duane Street, New York, through April 17. More