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    The First Museum Show on the Sari Unravels the Garment’s Evolution and Staying Power in 60 Spectacular Designs. See Them Here

    The sari debuted in the Indus Valley around 2800 B.C.E. Here in the 21st century, it’s undergoing “conceivably its most rapid reinvention in its 5,000-year history,” according to the Design Museum in London. It’s been reimagined as the gown sari, which is still sparking debates. Other rebels are dressing theirs down with sneakers.
    In London, lead curator Priya Khanchandani has spearheaded “The Offbeat Sari,” the first-ever museum show dedicated to the timeless garment, presenting 60 genre-defining specimens from recent history, some for the first time in the U.K. Standouts include a sari woven from steel and another from discarded x-ray film, and the first-ever sari to grace the Met Gala, an iridescent Sabyasachi design that Indian biotech executive Natasha Poonawalla wore last year.
    “The Offbeat Sari” unfolds over three sections: “Transformation” explores the recent stylistic innovations filling in new chapters for the sari, “Identity and Resistance” incorporates cultural context and the wearers’ roles in such shifts, and “New Materialities” concludes with a deep dive into the sari as a textile.
    Installation view of “The Offbeat Sari” at the Design Museum, London. Photo: © Andy Stagg for the Design Museum.
    “The evolution of the contemporary sari returns us to the founding principles of Indian design, devised post-independence and intertwined with post-colonial ideologies,” Khanchandani told Artnet News. “It also reflects a new generation in today’s India who, 76 years on from independence from colonial rule, are freed from the weight of postcolonial baggage, and are bolder in exploring their identity.” The open market, digital culture, and rising confidence in Indian craft has also had an impact, she added.
    “The Offbeat Sari” balances the universal and unique. Though one donned by Lady Gaga does appear, Khanchandani questions the impulse to peg the sari’s import to potential global adoption. On a research trip to India, she visited numerous designers featured throughout this show. “It was wonderful to get to know their work,” she said, “but what I didn’t expect was to uncover so many smaller studios whose creativity and ideas are transforming the sari into fresh, radical clothing in ways that I never imagined.”
    Surprises abound for viewers, too—including a sari and baton belonging to feminist Gulabi Gang leader Sampat Pal and saris worn by a skateboarder, a mountain climber, and more.
    See more images from the show below.
    China town sari from Ashdeen’s Chinoi-sari collection, 2017. Photo Hormis Antony Tharakan
    Installation view of “The Offbeat Sari” at the Design Museum, London. Photo: © Andy Stagg for the Design Museum.
    Installation view of “The Offbeat Sari” at the Design Museum, London. Photo: © Andy Stagg for the Design Museum.
    Concept sari by Tarun Tahiliani in foil jersey, 2010. Photo courtesy of the Design Museum, London.
    Installation view of “The Offbeat Sari” at the Design Museum, London. Photo: © Andy Stagg for the Design Museum.
    Installation view of “The Offbeat Sari” at the Design Museum, London. Photo: © Andy Stagg for the Design Museum.
    Installation view of “The Offbeat Sari” at the Design Museum, London. Photo: © Andy Stagg for the Design Museum.
    The Quilted Sari from the HUEMN Fall ’17 Collection, 2017. HUEMN. Photo: Pankaj Dahalia. Model Rachi Chitakara.
    Installation view of “The Offbeat Sari” at the Design Museum, London. Photo: © Andy Stagg for the Design Museum.
    “The Offbeat Sari” is on view at the Design Museum, 224-238 Kensington High Street, London, through September 17.
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    In Pictures: See Artist David Popa Paint Prehistoric Creatures on Natural Landscapes Around the World for Apple TV’s Dinosaur Documentary

    Its easy to forget that long before human evolution, dinosaurs roamed many of the same landscapes we enjoy visiting today. For a special project, the land artist David Popa has brought this prehistoric fauna back in the form of large scale portraits.
    The three works were completed as part of the American artist’s involvement with the second season of Apple TV’s “Prehistoric Planet,” narrated by the nature documentary legend Sir David Attenborough.
    One mammoth 100-feet-wide depiction of a T-Rex head bearing its teeth was composed on the red rock of a desert in Utah. Travelling far and wide, Popa also drew a Hatzegopteryx— most notable for its huge wings—on a remote island in Finland, where he lives.
    Finally, a Triceratops appeared along the Jurassic Coast in Dorset, England, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and major destination for fossil collectors.
    The ancient animals were drawn straight onto the land, incorporating the terrain’s natural textures into pictures that were made using organic materials like charcoal, chalk and earth pigments. Each work took up to 15 hours to complete.
    “It looks like the skin of a Triceratops,” Popa told BBC News about the role of the earth’s surface in the works. “I didn’t have to do too much because it was working for me.”
    Due to their expansive size, the portraits can only be seen in their entirety from above and have been documented by drones before they were inevitably worn away by the weather.
    “We’re so used to seeing things on a horizontal plane,” Popa said. “But how many beautiful locations are there that look completely different from top down? There’s a limitless number of locations that look otherworldly.”
    Popa is no stranger to making art in challenging conditions. Other examples of him working in the wild include a series of faces drawn with charcoal onto fragments of ice. These pieces were also highly ephemeral, although photos of the lost images have been sold as limited edition prints and 1/1 NFTs. More

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    An Exhibition of Taylor Swift’s Stuff Has Just Opened at the Museum of Arts and Design. Here Are 5 Must-See Displays, Swifties

    Swifties, rejoice! The Museum of the Arts and Design in New York has dedicated an entire floor to exhibiting a hoard of costumes, props, and jewelry worn by Taylor Swift over her decade-plus, Grammy award-winning career.  
    Across “Taylor Swift: Storyteller,” fans will find ensembles she donned in music videos for tracks including Shake It Off (2014) and Bejeweled (2022), guitars she wielded in live performances, and concert attire designed by couture houses. These 50-some artifacts are displayed alongside live projections of Swift’s music videos and wall-sized blow-ups of her handwritten lyrics.
    As hinted at by its title, the exhibition is intended to showcase Swift’s storytelling prowess, which has grown in scope and ambition throughout her 10-album-strong discography and expanding videography.
    “The music is telling you a certain story and she uses costumes and props in order to build upon those stories and characters she’s creating,” Tim Rodgers, MAD’s director, told Artnet News. “Like all artists, she is taking that into other realms—there’s fantasy woven into this, notions of larger archetypes.” 
    “All Too Well” outfit, designed by Marina Toybina. Photo: Bruce M White.
    The show was masterminded by Swift’s management company, 13 Management, which approached MAD specifically after seeing images of its Machine Dazzle retrospective. The showcase was put together in the short span of two months—a “speedy” sprint, in Rodgers’s words, to coincide with Swift’s current The Eras Tour, which rounds the tri-state area at the end of May. 
    There is every likelihood at the exhibition will be inundated by ardent Swift devotees (hence the timed entries and a gift shop stocked with Taylor Swift merch), but Rodgers is adamant that you don’t have to be a deep-dyed Swiftie to get sucked in. 
    “Yes, this is about Taylor Swift, but this is about something bigger than Taylor Swift,” he said. “This is really about our own culture and how it is that women are being presented, thought about, and written about. These are the ideas that we wanted to explore.” 
    Below, we’ve picked five highlights from the show ahead of your own inevitable visit.

    1. The cheerleader and ballerina ensembles from “Shake It Off”
    The cheerleader and ballerina outfits from the “Shake It Off” video (2014). Photo: Bruce M White.
    Swift’s video for “Shake It Off” made her the only female artist to hit a three-billion view count on YouTube, but also illustrates her wont of playing to and against archetypes. The four-minute clip sees her don personas from an inept break dancer to an inept performance artist, aided by vibrant costuming. Two of the most iconic, the ballerina (bearing hints of The Black Swan) and cheerleader (“You Belong to Me” callback, anyone?), are included here, encapsulating Swift’s inquiry into “notions of what women are supposed to be, can be, or should be,” per Rodgers. 

    2. One spangly guitar
    GS6 sparkle guitar #3 by Taylor Guitars. Photo: Min Chen.
    Quite likely Swift’s most recognizable instrument, this GS6 acoustic guitar, bejeweled with Swarovski crystals, is manufactured by Taylor Guitars (no relation) and harks back to the musician’s Speak Now era (c. 2010–12). It is not the only model out there though: the one on view is labeled guitar #3 and yet another one is now accompanying Swift on her The Eras tour. 

    3. This cat-themed outfit from “Look What You Made Me Do”
    An ensemble, featuring a sweatshirt by Gucci, boots by Christian Louboutin, and cat mask, from the “Look What You Made Me Do” video (2017). Photo: Min Chen.
    Will Taylor Swift ever run out of archetypes? Don’t bet on it. Her 2017 video presented us with a whole new slew of characters, including one dressed in an oversized Gucci hoodie sequined with a tiger’s face and wearing a cat mask. It’s in this costume that Swift is filmed amid a rifled bank vault, dollar bills at her Louboutin boots, practically inviting all manner of cat burglar puns.

    4. The flamingo lawn ornaments from “You Need to Calm Down”
    From left: Agent Provocateur robe from the “You Need to Calm Down” video (2019); a Versace ensemble worn by Swift to the 2019 MTV Video Music Awards; and an ensemble with a shirt by Marina Hoermanseder, shorts by Yves Saint Laurent, brassiere by Fleur de Mal, boots by Irregular Choice, and yard ornaments by Ohuhu from the “You Need to Calm Down” video (2019). Photo: Bruce M White.
    The video for Swift’s 2019 single is less a music video than a series of random celeb cameos (RuPaul! Katy Perry! The guys from Queer Eye!). But the real star turn comes from, of course, the flamingo ornaments that generously bedeck Laverne Cox’s trailer park lawn. Produced by art supplies company Ohuhu, the objects are here paired with the spiffy costume Swift wore in the video, an ensemble of designs by Saint Laurent, Marina Hoermanseder, and Irregular Choice. 

    5. A painting of Taylor Swift’s cat, Benjamin Button
    Painting of Benjamin Button, set against wallpaper by Rebecca Graves, from the “Lover” video (2019). Photo: Min Chen.
    Did you know Taylor Swift loves cats? She has three of them, christened with names like Meredith Grey, Olivia Benson, and Benjamin Button. The last, who she adopted after he appeared in her “ME!” video, is immortalized here in a painting, artist unknown, peering out endearingly from a misty blue backdrop. If you can’t view it in person, the work can also be glimpsed in (where else) another video, 2019’s “Lover.”  
    “Taylor Swift: Storyteller” is on view at the Museum of Arts and Design, 2 Columbus Circle, New York, through September 4.
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    In Pictures: Tate Modern Pairs Abstract Art Pioneers Hilma af Klint and Piet Mondrian—Who Never Met in Life But Shared a Love of Nature

    They may be two of the best-known names in early 20th century modern art, but Piet Mondrian and Hilma af Klint never actually met. Decades after their deaths in 1944, they are enjoying a posthumous encounter for a new show at Tate Modern in London.
    With more than 250 paintings, drawings and archival objects, the exhibition “Hilma af Klint and Piet Mondrian: Forms of Life” demonstrates how, even as each artist embarked on their own distinctive journey towards abstraction, many of the same forces were at play.
    Both artists shared an initial love of landscape painting and nature before getting swept up in the more radical ideas of their age.
    Born in Stockholm, Af Klint was one of the first women to attend Sweden’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts and began making a living by creating conventional, naturalistic works including botanical studies. Her real passion lay, however, in spiritualism and she became a medium who later claimed that voices had told her to “to execute paintings on the astral plane.” The result was a highly enigmatic, esoteric body of work that she kept secret for decades. As these paintings have become better known by the public, however, many have realized that Af Klint may well have been very first abstract artist.
    Mondrian’s early depictions of plants grew steadily more abstracted over time, until all that remained was the most basic structure of colour and line. At the same time, the Dutch artist’s interest grew in movements like theosophy and anthroposophy. The minimal grid paintings for which he is best known can therefore be understood as attempts to get closer to the essential reality of the universe.
    Though the two artists arrived at very different destinations by the end of their lives—Af Klint’s swirling masses a far cry from Mondrian’s more geometric style—the organic world remains for both the universal language through which they made their biggest breakthroughs.
    See some key works from the exhibition below.
    Piet Mondrian, The Gein Trees along the water (c.1905). Photo courtesy of Kunstmuseum Den Haag.
    Piet Mondrian, Red Amaryllis with blue background (1909–1910). Photo courtesy of Tate.
    Installation view of “Hilma Af Klint and Piet Mondrian” at Tate Modern 2023. Photo: Jai Monaghan, courtesy of Tate.
    Installation view of “Hilma Af Klint and Piet Mondrian” at Tate Modern 2023. Photo: Jai Monaghan, courtesy of Tate.
    Installation view of “Hilma Af Klint and Piet Mondrian” at Tate Modern 2023. Photo: Lucy Green, courtesy of Tate.
    Installation view of “Hilma Af Klint and Piet Mondrian” at Tate Modern 2023. Photo: Jai Monaghan, courtesy of Tate.
    Installation view of “Hilma Af Klint and Piet Mondrian” at Tate Modern 2023. Photo: Jai Monaghan, courtesy of Tate.
    Installation view of “Hilma Af Klint and Piet Mondrian” at Tate Modern 2023. Photo: Jai Monaghan, courtesy of Tate.
    “Hilma af Klint and Piet Mondrian: Forms of Life” is on view through September 3.

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    A New Show in London Is Exploring the Art of Forgery by Presenting Works That Are—You Guessed It—All Fake

    What’s in a forgery? More than you would expect, according to a new show at London’s Courtauld Gallery.
    Opening June 17, “Art and Artifice: Fakes from the Collection” brings together paintings, drawings, and sculptures from the museum’s holdings that have one thing in common: they’re not genuine. The 15th-century panel depicting virgin and child? A 1920s forgery in the style of Botticelli. That watercolor seascape by John Constable? A passing imitation.  
    But the exhibition is less a show about the art of forgery than an inquiry into the value of art—and not just the financial kind. The show’s curators Karen Serres and Rachel Hapoienu instead are attempting to suss out the historical and aesthetic value of fakes. 
    “If this drawing is by Michelangelo, it adds to our understanding of his evolution as a draughtsman,” they said in a joint statement to Artnet News. “If the drawing is by a forger, then it tells a different story altogether, and has value as a teaching tool for our students and researchers. Close examination of a forger’s lines and their comparison to Michelangelo’s lines forces us to consider the draughtsmanship of each artist.” 
    Some fakes too, they added, have been made of works by artists that are little known today, indicating that these artists were likely “much more popular in their own time to give rise to a market for forgeries.” 
    It’s for these educational purposes that the gallery has received forgeries over the years, being an institution dedicated to teaching art history and conservation. Some pieces were donated as out-and-out frauds meant to be studied; some others were gifted by collectors who later learned that their prized works, upon technical analysis and provenance research, are but knock-offs.
    Jacob Savery I, Forgery in the manner of Pieter Bruegel the Elder, Rocky landscape with a castle (c. 1590). Photo: The Courtauld, London (Samuel Courtauld Trust).
    Still, though forged works may have been produced to hoodwink collectors or museums, the show makes an argument that they too might be considered artworks themselves. Serres and Hapoienu point to the fake Constable, executed in the 1840s long after the artist’s death, which fooled generations of experts, and to the fact that even a skillfully executed fake could be affecting to a viewer.
    “If you find a piece of art beautiful, or moving, or thought-provoking, does it matter the name of the artist?” they said. “If a fake is good enough to fool all of the experts, does that mean its aesthetic quality is undisputed? Does knowing the artist’s identity automatically enhance our appreciation of a work of art?” 
    In fact, forgers themselves are artists to begin with. The exhibition includes works from the 16th century that were created by well-known artists, as well as those by notorious forgers Han van Meegeren, Falsario del Guercino (Faker of Guercino), and Eric Hebborn, whose counterfeits have entered both art history and the art market.  
    Essentially, the curators hope the show might create more transparency around discussions of art forgery (accompanying the Courtauld’s upcoming online collections database that will allow visitors to easily search its collection for fakes). After all, even with art expertise on hand and technological advancements in authentication, anyone could be duped. 
    “Most of these fakes fooled the experts of the time and later, and many were likewise unmasked by experts, so there is this question of connoisseurship and our reliance on it in the study of art,” said the curators. “We hope it also serves as a reminder of our fallibility, and that we should challenge our assumptions—often we see what we want to see, and we need to try to view works of art with a critical eye and open mind.” 
    See more works in the show below. 
    Umberto Giunti, Forgery in the manner of Sandro Botticelli, Virgin and Child (1920s). Photo: The Courtauld, London (Samuel Courtauld Trust).
    Forgery in the manner of Auguste Rodin, Seated female nude. Photo: The Courtauld, London (Samuel Courtauld Trust).
    Han van Meegeren, Forgery in the manner of Dirk van Baburen, The Procuress (c. 1930). Photo: The Courtauld, London (Samuel Courtauld Trust).
    “Art and Artifice: Fakes from the Collection” is on view at the Courtauld Gallery, Somerset House, Strand, London, June 17 through October 8.

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    A Spanish Arts Center Has Invited 50 Contemporary Artists to Pry Open the Legacy and Myth of Pablo Picasso

    Two men slowly stripped off their clothes and folded them into a neat pile at the preview of “Picasso: Untitled” in Madrid’s La Casa Encendida on May 19. Reclining in the nude against a black, velvety bench at the center of the gallery, they took up a similar position to the woman depicted in Picasso’s 1964 painting on the opposite wall. They held the pose. Visitors stole glances, whispered, and snapped photos.
    The performance by artist Maria Hassabi flipped Picasso’s infamous gaze on the women he painted—often depicted as bodies broken into disjointed, monstrous figures—and aimed it at men. Hassabi is one of 50 other contemporary artists invited to re-title and write a new description of a Picasso work, made between 1963 and 1973. On view until January 7, 2023 the show is part of a bonanza of international exhibitions commemorating 50 years since Picasso’s death in 1973; shows celebrate and, on a few notable occasions, skewer the artist.
    Picasso’s controversial portrayals and treatment of the women during in his lifetime have been under new scrutiny since the #MeToo movement. Likened to Harvey Weinstein by some, the legacy of the Modern master who famously said, “there are only two types of women: goddesses and doormats,” is also under fire for his use of African art, who some perceive as appropriated.
    Performance by Maria Hassabi. Photo: La Casa Encendida Estudio Perplejo
    Even the team at La Casa Encendida, a contemporary art space known for its progressive, feminist programming, had real doubts about featuring the icon. “In the beginning at least, Picasso didn’t seem like a good fit for this institution,” Lucia Casani, its director, told Artnet News. Reasons included a preference for working with contemporary “artists who defend diversity, feminism.” She noted, however, that “it was important, in a moment of a complicated trend of cancellation culture, not to directly cancel, but to open the conversation with as many voices as possible.” The results have “been really interesting,” she said.
    A collaboration with the Fundación Almine y Bernard Ruiz-Picasso (FABA) ensued, thanks to urging from the late former Spanish minister of culture, José Guirao. International artists spanning generations and genders accepted the show’s invitation, including the likes of Esther Ferrer, Adrián Villar Rojas, Camille Henrot, the collective Black Quantum Futurism, and Ryan Gander, to name a few.
    Visitors observe an artwork during the presentation of the exhibition “Picasso: Untitled” at La Casa Encendida on May 18, 2023, in Madrid, Spain. (Photo by Samuel de Román/Getty Images)
    Though fallen far from his once unquestioned, God-like status, the artist also remains a household name, pulling in record sales at auction, and the subject of regular shows, even outside this year’s commemoration. Calls for cancellation aside, this leaves many in the art wondering: Does the world need another Picasso exhibition?
    “No,” said Catalan curator Eva Franch i Gilabert, speaking at the opening of the “Untitled: Picasso” exhibition, which she curated. “Unless [it] is helping us articulate and provoke the right types of questions and answers we need in a time when we are trying to think through … issues of equality, gender, violence, and appropriation.”
    Given that Picasso hits on many of the pressure points of the 20th century’s male and European-dominated art history, the artist, as a result “allows the institution and ourselves to talk about these issues that artists themselves believe are important,” said Franch i Gilabert.
    Bernard Ruiz-Picasso during the press conference for the presentation of the exhibition “Picasso: Untitled” at La Casa Encendida on May 18, 2023, in Madrid, Spain. (Photo by Samuel de Román/Getty Images)
    The exercise comes amid similar efforts to reach younger audiences, such as the Paris Picasso museum’s colorfully busy rehang, or Hannah Gadsby’s feminist critique in the Brooklyn Museum’s exhibition titled, “It’s Pablo-matic” that opens on June 2.
    At La Casa Encendida, Picasso’s works glow under warm spotlights, bringing his palette of colors to brilliant life. They are free of any labels or text, in otherwise dimly lit, cocoon-like black-walled and carpeted rooms. Twelve of the works from his late period, which was until recently under-valued, have never been shown to the public. These works from the last decade of his life were long-considered too hastily executed as the artist battled against the clock. Yet that gestural freedom is also what gives these works their precursory, contemporary strength.
    On the opposite wall, are metallic panels mirroring the paintings. Here one finds—and it’s a bit of a painstaking search—the new titles and descriptions by contemporary artists. They vary in their quality, but ultimately, offer a kind of survey of where Picasso stands with a large swath of today’s socially engaged and conceptual creators.
    Most artists, to the surprise of the exhibition organizers, did not reduce or dismiss the artist. Participants appear rather to have been largely inspired to engage with Picasso’s work in a variety of ways, offering their close, critical reading of pieces ranging from ceramics to paintings and etchings.
    A visitor observes an artwork during the presentation of the exhibition “Picasso: Untitled” at La Casa Encendida on May 18, 2023, in Madrid, Spain. (Photo by Samuel de Román/Getty Images)
    New interpretations of Picasso, “are inevitable in our century,” and part of a healthy process, said artist Esther Ferrer, who was present at the opening. Born in 1937, she felt Picasso could not be limited to the female abuser who depicted his muses as hacked up bodies, because “there is also this image of a strong woman, the matron who runs on the beach.” That, or the “tortured, raped woman,” she added.
    Plenty addressed the artist’s tormented relationship with women and use of African art, through texts more easily absorbed in the comprehensive catalog, which includes the original titles and artist biographies, rather than the lengthy wall readings, displayed at a distance from the artworks.
    “Is this a depiction of one of the wives or girlfriends he treated like shit? I don’t get the Picasso thing. The big kerfuffle around what he did with Les Demoiselles d’Avignon—which is basically an appropriation of African imagery,” writes Korean American artist Johanna Hedva.
    Performance by Maria Hassabi. Photo: La Casa Encendida Estudio Perplejo
    And while commentary like Hedva’s were in the minority, they were welcomed by organizers, including Picasso’s grandson, Bernard Ruiz-Picasso, the son of Picasso’s first child, Paulo, with Picasso’s first wife, Olga Khokhlova. Ruiz-Picasso co-runs FABA with his wife, the art dealer Almine Rech Ruiz-Picasso, and works to preserve his grandfather’s legacy.
    In contrast to cancel culture that is an “almost irrational extremism,” Ruiz-Picasso said he “hoped, within the framework of this [50-year] celebration, to address questions,” surrounding his grandfather, which will “allow us to move forward.”
    It’s unclear how much an ultimately predictable contribution like Hedva’s moves things forward, or initiates hope for dialog. But it does offer a kind of litmus test for where creators stand today. And even among some of the most radical, socially engaged participating artists, Picasso is given a balanced look, via critical readings and stream-of-consciousness associations that address his complicated legacy in tandem with his enduring, creative force.
    Hassabi is one such example. “I don’t like thinking in terms of revenge,” she said after her performance. “It’s a different time now, and men are excited to be looked at—they always were, but now more,” she added, noting that she believed Picasso’s relevance was a classic mainstay, though she welcomed new viewpoints and criticism.
    World-renowned Picasso expert Carmen Giménez, who was also present at the opening, went further, reproaching the current, “terrible,” trends in Picasso-bashing, arguing that his work leaves “space for everyone.” Despite having several opportunities to meet the artist, Giménez said she had preferred not to, because of his reputation as a womanizer, and her interest in other contemporary artists. “I did not want to be involved with those kinds of situations,” she said. Unlike so many others at the time, “I didn’t see him as a God—I tried to avoid him,” she added.
    “Choosing to live with Picasso was a serious decision,” acknowledged Ruiz-Picasso, who never knew his grandmother, a woman said to have been heartbroken by the death of her family members who were left behind in Russia and killed during the wars of her generation. “If one didn’t know any better, we could very easily think that Picasso was indeed a bastard, … a killer of women [two of the women with whom he had lived committed suicide after his death],” said Ruiz-Picasso. “But I know, and saw how he was with people, and how they felt he had this positive energy. He always said: ‘You want to live? You need to make the most of it. You have to live now.”
    “Picasso: Untitled” is on view at Madrid’s La Casa Encendida until January 7, 2024

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    ‘I Just Had to Make Them’: Artist Sarah Meyohas on Her New Holographic Works That Change Colors Based on How You View Them

    Entering Sarah Meyohas’s new show at Marianne Boesky Gallery, you might be forgiven for thinking the artist has simply installed a number of pitch-black glass panes across the gallery. Step in front of these mirrored panels, though, and they reveal mesmeric three-dimensional images—a cluster of plants here, a fragment of a naked female form there—all tinged with iridescent hues. No, it’s not digital trickery, but the result of Meyohas’s continued adventures into holographic technology.
    These new works are the “Rolls Royce version” of holograms, as Meyohas put it, technically known as diffraction gratings, devices with multi-lined or grooved surfaces that split light into its different wavelengths or colors. The resulting vibrant tones seen by the human eye are known as structural color, an occurrence that Meyohas has lately found “religiously appealing.” 
    “Essentially, any color that changes based on your angle of viewing is structural color,” she told Artnet News. “The idea that a regular shape or form at nanoscale can refract and create light and color on the visible spectrum, and the fact that light is dependent on your position just felt so beautiful to me.”
    Sarah Meyohas, Interference #17 (2023) . Photo: Lance Brewer. © Sarah Meyohas. Courtesy of the artist and Marianne Boesky Gallery, New York and Aspen.
    Her diffraction gratings, making up her ongoing “Interferences” series (2021–present), have been created by machine-etching millions of microscopic lines onto glass at a depth of 600 nanometers. So meticulous is this operation—emerging from “our desire to encode more and more information in smaller and smaller spots,” Meyohas said—that in effect, “we can create structural color that is more precise than what nature creates.” 
    It is fitting, then, that the artist’s gratings have been etched from her film photographs of unearthly flora, offering a head-on collision between nature and technology. (Meyohas also considered water droplets and spiderwebs as subjects, except the former was difficult to execute and she did not want to raise spiders for the latter.) 
    Sarah Meyohas, Interference #19 (2023). Photo: Lance Brewer. © Sarah Meyohas. Courtesy of the artist and Marianne Boesky Gallery, New York and Aspen.
    “I didn’t want to put in a pattern. I didn’t want to put in something that could be repeated,” she explained. “It’s more about seeing the texture of life and living matter, and focusing on that up close.” 
    The centerpiece of the exhibition is a 14-foot long, multi-panel diffraction grating, titled Interference #18 (2023). The 30 trapezoid glass panes variously carry visuals of plant matter and snatches of a naked female body, with the entanglement between the biotic and technologic taking an abstract, sensual turn. 
    Sarah Meyohas, Interference #18 (2023). Photo: Lance Brewer. © Sarah Meyohas. Courtesy of the artist and Marianne Boesky Gallery, New York and Aspen.
    Meyohas’s newfound interest in anatomy is also captured in Diffraction #1 (2023), a sculptural form that’s part of a new series. Across the work’s conjoined glass windows can be glimpsed three-breasted female torsos—a surreal vision that emerges from Meyohas’s observation that “you really don’t see nude forms anymore,” whether in galleries or Hollywood movies. “I like putting bodies in spaces they’re not supposed to be,” she added. 
    These new pieces trail Meyohas’s other experiments with high-end tech, whether with the blockchain or A.I. But hers have never been idle pursuits of technology; instead, they are attempts to lift the lid on the true nature and ramifications of such innovations—what it might mean to financialize art (as in 2015’s Bitchcoin), or algorithmize beauty (as in 2017’s “Cloud of Petals“). This has entailed turning to “a different type of engagement with technology,” she said. 
    Sarah Meyohas, detail of Interference #18 (2023). Photo: Lance Brewer. © Sarah Meyohas. Courtesy of the artist and Marianne Boesky Gallery, New York and Aspen.
    With her latest diffraction gratings, she sought to create “pieces that are fundamentally optical, requiring your physical presence,” she noted, as opposed to work that could be “absorbed” by trending discussions of virtuality or generative A.I. 
    And Meyohas’s own engagement with holographic tech runs far deeper than those finely etched surfaces. While discussing the works, she excitedly detailed the technique of turning every pixel of her photographs into a value for the machine gratings, and the dilemma of whether or not to laminate the glass panes. “I get off on that,” she said of the rather nerdy process. 
    “I hope people will see the difference, but I’m not entirely sure that they will,” she added of her upscale holograms. “They’ll be like, ‘oh, it changes color, fun,’ you know? But it’s okay if they don’t because I just had to make it.”  
    “Sarah Meyohas” is on view at Marianne Boesky, 509 West 24th Street, New York, through June 30. 
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    Artist Trevor Paglen Sounds the Alarm on Our New Era of ‘Psy-Ops Capitalism’ in a Reality-Testing Show at Pace Gallery

    Remember “the dress” from 2015? For a few weeks that year, a low-res image of a random frock fomented a seemingly inescapable internet debate over whether its colors were blue and black or white and gold.  
    It all seemed like a bit of fun. Taylor Swift weighed in; so did every uncle with a Facebook account. Studies and peer-reviewed papers eventually got to the bottom of the science behind the split in interpretations, but by that point, most people were tired of talking about it. In the end, we were left with a simple fact: people can look at the same object and see different things. 
    But what if this basic physiological phenomenon could be weaponized against us in the name of spycraft or commerce? (The dress debate proved to be good business for social media platforms and media outlets—Buzzfeed even based its editorial strategy around it.)  
    For Trevor Paglen, an artist who has made a career of looking at the sly ways in which technology has shaped our view of the world around us, this is a question of when, not if.  
    “In the extremely near future,” the artist said, “you and I will watch what is ostensibly the same show on Netflix, but we will each see a different movie.” The streaming platform, he explained, “will be generating a different movie for us based on, one, the things we want to see; and two, what it thinks will be the most effective way to extract some kind of value from us.”   
    Trevor Paglen, UNKNOWN #85237 (Unclassified object near The Eastern Veil) (2023). © Trevor Paglen. Courtesy of Pace Gallery.
    The dress anecdote may seem like an odd place to start an article about Paglen’s new show at Pace Gallery, which has nothing to do with clothes or Netflix and is instead about a wide range of heady political topics like electronic warfare and the effects of military influence operations on American culture. But we begin here because, if there’s one central theme that ties this otherwise disparate exhibition together, it is, in Paglen’s words, that “perception is malleable.” 
    “You’ve Just Been F*cked by PSYOPS” is the name of the show. Its title is taken from a phrase frequently found on challenge coins, which are small tokens made to commemorate special military and police units who use unconventional tactics of persuasion to achieve a particular objective—also known as psychological operations, or psy-ops. (Taking the form of currency, these mementos also make eerie metaphors for the military-industrial complex writ large.)
    If you’ve heard about psy-ops, chances are it was in the context of science fiction or conspiracy theory. But the phrase is about to become much more common in our collective lexicon, Paglen said. If the last decade was defined by “surveillance capitalism”—a term coined by scholar Shoshana Zuboff to connote the practice of corporations harvesting and selling our personal data—then we’re about to enter what Paglen calls the era of “psy-ops capitalism.” 
    Trevor Paglen, (PALLADIUM Variation #4) 2023. © Trevor Paglen. Courtesy of Pace Gallery.
    Sure enough, a scary character features prominently in Paglen’s own version of a challenge coin, which is a centerpiece of the show. The sculpture, which is roughly 50 times the size of a coin, is made from steel, bullets, and resin; in the middle is a menacing skull with glowing red features. (Real challenge coins are inscribed with their units’ insignia—typically symbols of patriotism or violence. Skeletons and dragons are popular choices, Paglen pointed out.)
    Elsewhere in the show are several large-scale photographs of “unids,” or unidentified objects floating in orbit around the earth, which the artist imaged using infrared telescopes in remote locations. It can be hard to spot these unids, though. Paglen’s prints are also packed with stellar remnants, stars, and gaseous clouds. So much so, in fact, that the pictures could just as easily be read as musings on the vast mysteries of outer space.
    To Paglen, they kind of are. “I think that space itself as a concept is kind of a psy-op,” he said, only half joking. Because of its radical unknowability, space becomes a backdrop onto which we project our fantasies, he said.
    Trevor Paglen, UNKNOWN #90007 (Classified object near Dreyer’s Nebula) (2023). © Trevor Paglen. Courtesy of Pace Gallery.
    Think about this idea in the gallery and you’ll begin to wonder: Can I trust anything on view, or is the artist employing the same techniques that he’s exploring? Am I seeing deception or am I being deceived?
    This question gets even knottier with the one video piece, Doty (2023). The 66-minute film features interviews with Richard Doty, a former member of the Air Force Office of Special Investigations, who discusses his work recruiting spies, running surveillance operations, and spreading false information within UFO communities to cover up secret work conducted at New Mexico’s Kirtland Air Force base, where he was stationed.  
    Whether or not Doty is a reliable narrator is never quite clear; nor is his agenda. For every moment when it feels like he’s whispering state secrets into our ears, there are others that feel like he’s spinning yarns that are just a little too neat to be true—a magician’s assistant distracting from the trick.
    Trevor Paglen, Doty (2023). © Trevor Paglen. Courtesy of Pace Gallery.
    Suspended above the gallery is the artist’s other sculpture in the show, the kite-like PALLADIUM Variation #4 (2023). It’s based on satellites designed by military and intelligence agencies to confuse enemy radars, but unlike those objects, which are ultra-sophisticated pieces of deception technology, Paglen’s imitation is primitive—just steel and foil. More than a weapon, it invokes the work of the mid-century minimalists, say, or Light and Space artists like Larry Bell. 
    The sculpture’s inutility leaves its meaning unclear. That’s the case with many of the artworks on view in the exhibition. Straightforward and spare—a printed photograph, a single-channel video—they exude none of the complexities of the systems they invoke. How they all fit together remains a mystery. The whole thing is fraught with ambiguity. 
    This, according to the artist, is intentional. The show asks viewers: “What is this ambiguity? How are we susceptible to being taken advantage of in these moments?”
    “Our impulse is to try to resolve that ambiguity, to make sense of it,” he went on. But for Paglen, the show is meant to remind us that our “inability to live with ambiguity might be a means by which we can be manipulated.” 
    “Trevor Paglen: You’ve Just Been F*cked by PSYOPS” is on view now through July 22 at Pace in New York. 
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