Olga de Amaral Wove Her Own Path. At 92 the Art World Is Catching Up.
The nonagenarian fiber artist Olga de Amaral is having a moment. Not just a present career high, but one in which her place and contributions to the history of art itself are being codified. Now, following its 2024 debut at the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain, Paris, a major retrospective at the Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami, offers stateside audiences a rare opportunity to encounter the work of this defining—yet underappreciated—figure in contemporary art history.
The canon of contemporary textile art is still very much being wrought. While the medium certainly is not new (on the contrary, it is one of the oldest in human existence), understandings of it as a tradition of fine art, rather than simply craft, are comparatively in their nascency.
Amaral has been the common thread throughout the recent spate of museum exhibitions reassessing textile art’s place within the history and trajectory of art itself—from “Weaving Abstraction in Ancient and Modern Art” at the Metropolitan Museum of Art or “Woven Histories: Textiles and Modern Abstraction” at the Museum of Modern Art, to “Subversive, Skilled, Sublime: Fiber Art by Women” at the Smithsonian American Art Museum.
Installation view of “Olga de Amaral” (2025) at the Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami, presented with the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain. Artwork: © Olga de Amaral. Photo: © Kris Tamburello.
The crowning jewel of Amaral’s recent exhibition achievements is the ICA Miami retrospective. Following the success of “Olga de Amaral” at the Fondation Cartier, a new iteration of the show has been tailored to the ICA Miami’s building, and features work dating from across the full breadth of the artist’s career. On view through October 12, 2025, the show is a testament not only to Amaral’s career to date, but the promised significance of her work moving into the future too.
Amaral’s work feels both ancient and futuristic, at once unmistakably Colombian and universally transcendent. In their golden shimmer and woven density, these pieces hold space for memory, ritual, and wonder—anchors to the earth that somehow seem to float.
Olga de Amaral, Casa Amaral, Bogotá, Colombia (2024). Photo: Juan Daniel Caro.
Who is Olga de Amaral?
Born in 1932 in Bogotá, Colombia, as Olga Ceballos Velez, Olga de Amaral received a degree in architectural design from the Colegio Mayor de Cundinamarca, where she attended in the early 1950s. Between 1954 and 1955 she studied fiber art at the historic Cranbrook Academy of Art in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan. It was here she first met Jim Amaral, fellow artist and her future husband.
After a year of study in Michigan, Amaral returned to Bogotá where she began her independent artistic practice, creating both decorative pieces as well as undertaking design commissions. Jim visited in 1956, and they were wed in 1957, both remaining in Bogotá and establishing a textile workshop.
In 1965, Amaral established and directed the Textile Department at the University of Los Andes, Bogotá, where she remained at the helm until 1972. In the year following, she was awarded a Guggenheim Fellowship.
Over the course of her career, she has been the subject of dozens of gallery and museum solo shows, and her practice has remained ever evolving and endlessly experimental; no two works or series adhere to a singular technical or conceptual approach but rather reflect an ongoing effort to push the boundaries of what the medium is capable of.
Installation view of Olga de Amaral, “Estelas” (1996–2018) at the Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami, presented with the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain. Artwork: © Olga de Amaral. Photo: © Kris Tamburello.
An exhibition experiment
The experimentalism inherent in Olga de Amaral’s practice is reflected and interrogated throughout her ICA Miami retrospective. Marie Perennès curated the Paris iteration, and returns for the Miami installment, teaming up with the museum’s Stephanie Seidel. Like the previous iteration at the Fondation Cartier, the show was designed by award-winning Paris-based architect Lina Ghotmeh.
Envisioning a metaphoric forest, each of Amaral’s works hang free from the walls of the gallery space, not only allowing visitors to fully circumvent each piece but necessitating it. The result is a physical act of discovery, wherein one work leads to the next, and the verso of each work becomes as much a highlight as the recto.
Installation view of “Olga de Amaral” (2025) at the Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami, presented with the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain. Artwork: © Olga de Amaral. Photo: © Kris Tamburello.
Carrying the forest metaphor are a series of custom benches and stools that are mirrored, which from a distance appear almost as small pools of light. Close up, they offer ever-changing reflections of the works hanging in their vicinity.
Hung largely at an angle throughout the museum’s third floor space, a wall of windows looks out over a small forest’s canopy. Like in Paris, the natural landscape viewable from within the exhibition played an important part in the development of the show’s design and parallels Amaral’s own practice of taking inspiration from nature.
Installation view of Olga de Amaral, “Brumas” (2013-2018) at the Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami, presented with the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain. Artwork: © Olga de Amaral. Photo: © Kris Tamburello.
The show is curatorially anchored by two multi-part, large-scale series: the “Brumas” (2013–2018), with individual pieces comprised of hanging linen threads that have been colored with acrylic pigment, and the “Estelas” (1996–2018), idiosyncratically shaped flat works nearly entirely enrobed in gold leaf. Each speaks to the way Amaral explores the third dimension.
In “Brumas,” the works seem to defy rules of opticality and space, with geometric forms hazily being revealed through slow circumvention of the piece. In contrast, the hanging “Estela” works challenge perception, more specifically, perceptions of weight. Covered in gold and in rough-hewn shapes, they appear almost as monumental totems, evoking pre-Hispanic archeological finds. Unravelling this assessment is their delicate hanging, seemingly hovering off the ground, bestowing a sense of weightlessness.
Installation view of “Olga de Amaral” (2025) at the Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami, presented with the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain. Artwork: © Olga de Amaral. Photo: © Kris Tamburello.
Marking the Art Historical Moment
Constantly experimenting with materials, space, construction, and composition, Amaral has crafted a multi-decade oeuvre that not only parallels but defines fiber and textile art making of the latter half of the 20th century and beginning of the 21st. It stands apart from her contemporaries in its diversity and reach, in no small part due to her efforts teaching and engaging with subsequent generations of artists.
Beginning her career at the height of Mid-Century Modern popularity, and in the shadow of Bauhaus Modernism and Constructivism, Amaral emerged with her own unique visual, sculptural language informed by the prevailing movements of the time while remaining distinctive.
Installation view of “Olga de Amaral” (2025) at the Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami, presented with the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain. Artwork: © Olga de Amaral. Photo: © Kris Tamburello.
Incorporating everything from pre-Columbian and Indigenous weaving and craft traditions to straightforward knotting and braiding, as well as employing a diverse range of materials—such as wool, horsehair, linen, paint, cotton, gesso, gold leaf, and palladium—Amaral’s oeuvre evidences the singularity of her creative vision. It is no surprise that her work is consistently featured at the forefront of dialogues and exhibitions around the reappraisal of fiber and textile art as she was one of the first artists to approach it as the foundation of her practice, rather than auxiliary craft like some her contemporaries. As far as the art historical canon goes, the Fondation Cartier and ICA Miami make a convincing case that Amaral is the benchmark of the medium and will remain a key touchpoint for the practice well into the future.
More than a retrospective, this exhibition is a long-overdue recognition. Olga de Amaral hasn’t just contributed to the story of textile art—she’s helped write its most vital chapters.
Text by Annikka Olsen More