Helmut Lang on His Sculptures’ Innate Mystery: ‘More Questions, Not Answers’
“Singular meanings are not always the best,” Helmut Lang told me. It’s a statement befitting a sculptor whose works defy simple explanation.
A group of Lang’s oblique sculptures has just landed at the MAK Center for Art and Architecture at the Schindler House in Los Angeles for the exhibition “What remains behind.” They appear as alien forms in the concrete-lined minimalist space. A low figure appears crouched and contorted with creases and folds; another, a monolithic slab, stands in a corner, its face alive with mysterious indentations. More significant than what they represent, though, is what they hold.
“The object and its integrity,” Lang said, “are the most important.”
Helmut Lang, fist I and fist IV (2015–17). Courtesy of the artist.
Lang’s works have been constructed out of such materials as foam and latex, steel and resin—what he called “not the usual suspects” when it comes to sculpture. Their former uses and purposes, he said, are given new heft by the artist’s hand.
“I just simply find it more inspiring as it is also more challenging,” he added of his choice of materials. “The emotional weight comes in by what I do with them, and I prefer the outcome not to have predetermined meaning. Materials are just materials despite their past.”
Helmut Lang, consenting position (2015–17). Courtesy of the artist and MAK Center for Art and Architecture.
The Austrian artist, of course, has had a long history with unconventional materials. His eponymous fashion label, founded in 1986, was characterized by minimalist tailoring and severe silhouettes, as much as its use of fabrics from rubber and metallics to thermochromic textiles. Lang’s deconstructive approach to design—combining dinner jackets with tracksuits, juxtaposing horsehair against silk—also helped dismantle the boundary that long separated luxury and street fashion.
Since retiring from the fashion industry in 2005, Lang’s art practice has blossomed. Not long after, he began showing his Delphic sculptures—towering columns created out of fabric scraps, stacked objects built out of rubber tires, reliefs made with memory foam—all bearing out his experimental approach.
“What happens during the work process, intellectually and form-wise, is that I approach a piece with an imaginary idea which I have not experienced and therefore remains innocent, waiting to be explored,” he explained. “This emotion results in a flow of works or procedures that can be interrupted at any point. These are condensed, layered, broken up, and again collected and suddenly taken over by another.”
Installation view of “Helmut Lang: What remains behind” at the MAK Center for Art and Architecture, Schindler House, Los Angeles, 2025. Photo courtesy of MAK Center.
The material responds too: “At any given moment, loss of control takes effect. If the sculpture is strong enough to fight back, that is often a good moment to stop.”
The form of sculpture has captured him, Lang said, because it afforded “the most possibilities of expression.” For years, too, he maintained a fond friendship with sculptor Louis Bourgeois—she appeared on his label’s 1997 campaign and he included a choker she designed in 1948 in his 2003 runway show. Elsewhere, he has reflected on how she affirmed his approach to material. Memory, Bourgeois once said, is a “form of architecture.” Lang’s works compact impressions past, present, and those yet to come.
Helmut Lang, fist II (detail) (2015–17). Courtesy of the artist and MAK Center for Art and Architecture.
At the Schindler House, the exhibition is towered over by a pair of fist-like sculptures, their bodies sharply folded, bound, and gnarled. Even as they challenge singular meaning, they invite exploration. A viewer is enticed to move around the works, to inspect their every cut and dent. The point, said Lang, is to trigger “more questions, not answers.”
“Once the work is handed over to the public, it becomes many lives,” he added. “Everyone is experiencing what one sees depending on their current potential and that is where the personal dialogue comes in. It is beneficial to leave the safety of former experiences behind, which leads to endless layers of opportunities.”
Helmut Lang, kleine Portrait Arbeit I (2015–17). Courtesy of the artist and MAK Center for Art and Architecture.
The meaning of his sculptures could also very well change with the environment they’re displayed in, he said—but in ways that remain, as always, open.
“I am willing to let a space violate the sculptures and avoid the trap of beautifying the object. I want to think that a sculpture will eventually be placed in different contexts and will respond for better or worse each time,” he said.
“Also, one cannot always choose where it will end up and I don’t want to be consumed by that fact. There is something interesting about not always being in control beyond the creation of the object.”
“Helmut Lang: What remains behind” is on view at Schindler House, 835 N. Kings Road, West Hollywood, California, through May 4. More